All of us that own an FC have gone through the task of rebuilding, replacing, or repairing SOMETHING after purchase. Even the newest FC is still 12 YEARS OLD, which is plenty of time for a number of things to be less than average, aside from the hundreds of thousands of miles which may be on the odometer, or may not be. Rolling back the odometer on an FC is not difficult, buyer beware.



Each individual system should be inspected for operational function and overall condition. Gaskets fail, rubber hoses deteriorate, and time, mileage, and heat, to name a few, take their toll on all operating systems.



The mechanically inept should opt for a rotary specific auto repair shop to perform the inspection/repair, the money spent to have a meticulous inspection/repair is nothing compared to the thousands you may spend down the road.



For those of you more inclined to do-it-yourself, go buy a Haynes repair manual, or a copy of the Factory service manual, grab a cold one and follow along:



#1 Cleanliness is next to Godliness, ie: pressure wash/steam clean the engine bay and undercarriage, clean off the decade+ or so of grime that has inevitably accumulated EVERYWHERE. One can rent either or take to a detail shop and have done. (This isnt a necessity, more a personal preference item)



#2 change fluid/filter(if applicable) on following systems: oil, transmission, differential, fuel. If for no other reason, to have piece of mind that the systems are full, to the correct amount, of new and correct fluid, and the filter(s)are correct and new.



#3 replace all belts. They may be worn out, loose, cracked, etc.



#4 Replace the following rubber hoses; radiator to thermostat housing (installing a new thermostat w/ gasket would not hurt), radiator to water pump, firewall to rear plate (next to oil filter), firewall to radiator (smaller diameter hoses, steel pipe seperates two pieces of hose) . Once completed, drain, flush, refill and test entire cooling system. Also install new radiator cap.



#5 remove upper, and middle intake manifolds (have new gaskets handy) and replace ALL rubber vacuum hose with silicone hose equivilant. (see step 6)



#6 Since the manifolds are off it wouldnt hurt to replace the oil metering lines, these are probably brittle and yellow, semi-transparent. (do not reuse old banjo fitting washers, NEW LINES & NEW WASHERS).



These are some of the things you can to do ensure less headaches down the road. Other repairs, rebuilds, or reconstructions may be in your future, but these may bring some reliability to your newly acquired RX-7, and youve got some initial hands on practice for the performance mods that you'll surely want to get started on soon.

well done my friend. Very well done. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif





Do all this.. and we're off to the races.... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif

ok, what about for those silicon hoses.. where to get and stuff like that?



Oh yeah the belts thing is true.. When I started up the Vert this weekend the Alternator belt busted after the first rev..

should be avail. @ local parts house

nice... very useful post

If I am taking off the manifolds, I would surely replace the fuel pulsation dampner.



One fire was enough for me.

Also add in there fuel lines. These get dry rotted like the vacuum lines and radiator hoses. You'll need about 12 feet of 5/16 inside diameter fuel injection rated line. You get it at any local parts store. If I remember correctly there should be 2 long lines in the engine bay going to the fuel rails and one short one going from the primary rail to the secondary rail. There are also 2 more long ones in the rear at the gas tank. You can access the ones in the front by removing the upper intake manifold. The ones in the rear can be access from under the car and from under the carpet in the trunk where your fuel pump access panel is.

Check your fuses and make sure they are the right ones for the particular accessory.

Change your plugs and wires. Most people don't know that our cars use a different plug and just put in some regular old plugs. The plug wires are probably as old as the car and aren't performing like they should.

Hope this helps some more.

Hey i can't tell you how much this topic just helped me i read and re-read everthing to make sure i've done somthin or am going to do somthin in the future

SO, how much would this cost altogether?

Yeah, I want to know also.

Ditto, since I'm about to buy a 10th Ann. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif

You can compare 200 bucks or so, to thousands and thousands of dollars. You take the pick.



I did not do all these steps, so now I am paying for it.



Oh, and check your oil cooler lines and make sure they are tight. Mine blew off and it lead to my engine damage. Also might wanna change out your 02 Sensor(35 bucks maybe), and change out your Coolant Sensor cause they can go bad.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

make sure to get the right plugs. my NA car is sitting now due to a busted water seal and it also had plugs that were definenly not right on it. i pulled them out with pieces of apex seal stuck to the electrodes.

I'm not surewho else has had this problem but check/replace your brake calipers. Also check/replace brake rotors and I'm not sure if you can but try some locktight on the two screws on the front of the rotor. Like i said I don't know if any one else has has this happen but I ran over a rabbit and I was out for a month https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif .It might cost a bit but still you have prevented MAJOR DAMAGE!!!

very helpful!! thanks

ok #6 Since the manifolds are off it wouldnt hurt to replace the oil metering lines, these are probably brittle and yellow, semi-transparent. (do not reuse old banjo fitting washers, NEW LINES & NEW WASHERS).

ok where do i get new lines and every thing also how much does it cost for replacing the system