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Bought a 20B. It was advertised as a B series. It arrived yesterday and it's stamped A627. I've emailed the guy about it and he actually returned my email. That kinda surprised me. I paid going rate for a B series. I passed over other A series engines that were going for less.
So it's my understanding that the 000 and A000 series are the ones Mazda had trouble with. From what I've read the first two series e-shafts are different. Some have no problems though. Bottom line is that I want a 600whp engine. So should I a) ask for a full refund and send the engine back, b) ask for a partial refund and have at it with no worries, c) ask for a partial refund and possibly regret it later? This is NOT buyers remorse, so let's not go there. I just want it right. And the fact is I was sold something under false pretenses. Thanks |
Originally Posted by C. Ludwig' post='842331' date='Oct 24 2006, 12:28 PM
Bought a 20B. It was advertised as a B series. It arrived yesterday and it's stamped A627. I've emailed the guy about it and he actually returned my email. That kinda surprised me. I paid going rate for a B series. I passed over other A series engines that were going for less. So it's my understanding that the 000 and A000 series are the ones Mazda had trouble with. From what I've read the first two series e-shafts are different. Some have no problems though. Bottom line is that I want a 600whp engine. So should I a) ask for a full refund and send the engine back, b) ask for a partial refund and have at it with no worries, c) ask for a partial refund and possibly regret it later? This is NOT buyers remorse, so let's not go there. I just want it right. And the fact is I was sold something under false pretenses. Thanks I believe the iron or rotor housings are also different on the later models -more material around the pins. If it's just the e-shaft, you could ask for a discount, sell the stock shaft and upgrade to an aftermarket shaft for a little additional money out of pocket. In the end you would have a rotating assembly that is lighter and stronger than the stock B+ setup. |
Would you mind telling us which seller this was so we can be aware if we buy from them? I might be on the market soon as well.
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I don't want to give out his name just yet. We're talking about a resolution so I'm not yet saying he's a seller to avoid. If it turns completely sour then I'll spill the beans.
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As best i can recall A series blocks have the small dowel landing on the side plates same as original s5 plates , i would be after a refund. Although im sure i have seen them with only the front plate been small and the rest been big , requiring only one new plate.
As for the shaft i would avoid after market ones at all costs , genuine parts only. Has this anything to do with the pp turbo project? |
I bought 1 unit 20B front cut in recently. What i saw stamped D519 top of the 3 rotor housing. Anyone can verifying what type of this motor. Thanks.
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The D is a good one. Want to sell it?
Nospig, the ppt project is on indefinite hold. Though if this 20B ends up going back, which I think it will, it might be on again. |
Originally Posted by C. Ludwig' post='842611' date='Oct 26 2006, 11:33 AM
The D is a good one. Want to sell it? Nospig, the ppt project is on indefinite hold. Though if this 20B ends up going back, which I think it will, it might be on again. |
The 0 and A series motors had a weaker mounting point for the dowel pins.
If you want 600whp from the stock block, you should make him exchange it for a B-D series. If you are rebuilding it anyway, just dowel pin it and make him pay for that, which will make it stronger than a stock B anyway. A series is worth around 3500, a B is more like 4200. |
I'm trying to go the return route right now. I've offered to pay return shipping and accept a refund less the original shipping amount but he seems to want to be a prat about it. If I'm stuck with it I'll just go ahead and sink more money into it I guess.
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