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-   -   I have some questions.... (https://www.nopistons.com/20b-forum-51/i-have-some-questions-68877/)

Dave G. 01-29-2008 01:43 AM

So I am going to be upgrading a car that has a 13B-RE to a 20B. I have built 2 other 20B engines before, so the engine building part isn't too big of a deal. It's the related external things that I have some questions related to. Here is some quick info on the setup. The car will be turbo charged running between 20-22psi on a Turbonetics turbo, and it's a drift car. Transmission is sequential with the same bell housing to transmission bolt pattern as a GForce box. ECU is a Motec M800 with LS1 coils and all autosport connectors (my favorite)



I think that should be enough info for the following questions (if not, just let me know).



I am guessing that no one makes 20B dry sump oil pan plates, is this correct? If someone makes one, where are they available from? I am thinking something along the lines of 1/2" to 3/4" aluminum would be nice, and make the block nice and rigid.



I have read different things regarding running turbo's with dry sump. What is the best and most common way for the drain line setup (if they are the same thing)?



Does anyone make bell housing adapters to fit the GForce transmission bolt pattern? I am kinda running into a snag here. The tranny has a 29 spline input shaft, and it's not exactly common outside of the racing type that the transmission comes from. That being said, if I can work out a stock bell housing to fit up to the gearbox somehow, then I can run a rotary push type clutch and just have some disc's made in 29 spline. That would allow me to run the factory starter, and the stock sized flywheel. I have the option to run a Tilton setup, including bell housing, flywheel, clutch, and hydrolic release bearing setup, but it takes 10-12 weeks to make.



If I do indeed run the dry sump setup, what size of oil cooler is recommended? What size tank do most of you guys run or is recommended?



Does anyone sell the 20B exhaust flange in 321 stainless?



Are there any tips or tricks to this engine setup that anyone would like to recommend?



Thanks in advance guys.

hsmidy 01-29-2008 01:54 AM

oil cooler as bit as you can get ,also look at increasing you oil capacity(lower duty cycle)



my 20b is a street/strip car and im running a 100L drop tank, probly too big for your plan

Dave G. 01-29-2008 02:04 AM

Well, I don't want so much oil that it takes away from performance by adding a ton of weight, but I do want enough capacity that it is doing what it is designed to do. The Mustang on our team runs a 4 gallon tank and the Corolla runs a 3.5 gallon tank. I am guessing that something like a 4 gallon tank would be sufficient? Thanks

Clarks7 01-29-2008 11:19 AM

Why would you have concerns about running a dry sump with the turbo?



I agree with hsmidy, my thought would be better too much oil, than running dry!

Dave G. 01-29-2008 01:21 PM

Since you run the dry sump cover, there is no provisions for an oil return off the turbo. People have said that they get smoke out of the exhaust because oil can build up in the drain lines. I don't want to have the cool engine setup, and have it smoke like it has bad oil control rings =)

Clarks7 01-29-2008 04:08 PM

My 20b's turbos spit out a decent amount of oil, I look at it as it is keeping it lubricated https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/tongue.gif But sounds like you are planning a little better than I. Could you plum an oiling system specifically for the turbo?

Dave G. 01-29-2008 07:37 PM

Possibly. Once the front cover comes in from Mazda, I plan to go through it and look it over some.

RONIN FC 01-29-2008 07:42 PM

Dave, you workin on another sick project I see.



I think your gonna have to hammer through this one yourself. Not that common of a setup.

Or post this in the "Building and porting section". Maybe you can solicit the help of Mr Hannover. Hes got lots of experience with dry sump and race only applications such as yours.

Dave G. 01-30-2008 01:17 PM

Cool, I'll copy it over there.


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