NoPistons -Mazda Rx7 & Rx8 Rotary Forum

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-   20B Forum (https://www.nopistons.com/20b-forum-51/)
-   -   distributor set up (https://www.nopistons.com/20b-forum-51/distributor-set-up-67223/)

sen2two 09-04-2007 10:01 PM

is there a way to run a distributor set up on a 20b? if so.....HOW!?



im looking to go carb and have as little wires as possible. simplicity is the way...



havnt heard anything about this...but that dosnt mean it cant be done.

hsmidy 09-05-2007 02:43 AM

yeah man hit up racing beat they have a dizzy setup for them, failing that get a clued up autosparky to nmake ya one

Clarks7 09-05-2007 12:37 PM

Racing beat has a 20b distributor ($440). I am thinking the same thing about switching to a carb on my 20b. I have spoken to Racing Beat, MazdaTrix, and Atkins. I have not yet found anyone who has just done a carb without a supercharger. I asked about a sidedraft setup and this was their response,

"Your question was forwarded to Jim Mederer, Racing Beat's co-founder and chief engineer, for review. The following is his reply to your inquiry:



I have never attempted to use a Holley carb on a 20B - only 12A's and 13B's.



Jim Mederer





-----Original Message-----

From: Clark Burke at Dillard Elementary [mailto:CBurke@egusd.net]

Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 9:38 AM

To: Jim Langer

Subject: RE: 20b side draft carb?





What about a Holley without the supercharger?



Thank you again for your time!



Clark Burke

Principal

C.W. Dillard Elementary School

(916) 687-6121

fax (916}) 687-8183



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From: Jim Langer [mailto:jlanger@racingbeat.com]

Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 8:22 AM

To: Clark Burke at Dillard Elementary

Subject: 20b side draft carb?





Your question was forwarded to Jim Mederer, Racing Beat's co-founder and chief engineer, for review. The following is his reply to your inquiry:



No, although I have started such a manifold. Unfortunately, the width of the carbs (Weber 45 DCOE) was such that it would have been necessary to stagger the carbs high-low-high, and the related jet access and throttle linkage problems made the result diffficult, and I never completed the manifold.



Jim Mederer

-----Original Message-----

From: Clark Burke at Dillard Elementary [mailto:CBurke@egusd.net]

Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 11:15 AM

To: jlanger@racingbeat.com

Subject: 20b side draft carb?

Good Day,

I was curious if you have ever fabricated a side draft carb setup or manifold for a 20b?

Thank you,



Clark Burke

Principal

C.W. Dillard Elementary School

(916) 687-6121

fax (916}) 687-8183"





I would be interested if you are designing or looking to add the carb... It doesn't seem that difficult, just no one has followed through yet... that I know of.

sen2two 09-05-2007 08:52 PM

thanks man! do i have to order the catalog? cause i couldnt find it on their web site.



im really trying to go the cheapest and most simple route. a "budget" 20b into an FC. if there is such a thing...



stock 20b with header and stock ECU. should be fine for a daily driver. i figure swapping to a distributor is cheaper and easier than using 6 MSD coils or 3 dual tower coils. and looks cleaner in my opinion anyway...



have any experience with this? tips???

hsmidy 09-06-2007 01:32 AM

lol budget 20b=expensive 13b, nar but good on ya, i dont have a any personal experiance with this setup but id highly recommend going electronic ignition(cant remember if RB dizzy is or not) and dont skimp out when it comes to ya extarctors theres alot to be had from a well tuned exhaust in an n/a

sen2two 09-06-2007 09:28 AM

the word budget was loosely used...



im still looking at 6 grand. but thats about 4 grand less than other 20b swaps i seen...

Clarks7 09-06-2007 10:36 AM

Type in "11603" in the part number search on the RB website. The advantage is you will not have to spend the time or money tuning the ECU, but the disadvantage is apparent switching from an electronic distributor to a mechanical... but it does simplify things if that is your goal.

sen2two 09-06-2007 11:29 AM

thanks for the part #!



have you installed one of these? what do they mean by "The kit does require a moderate level of fabrication ability, including welding skills"? what needs to be done to fit this? and what is CDI ignition? it says i need that also.

Clarks7 09-06-2007 11:38 AM


Originally Posted by sen2two' post='882083' date='Sep 6 2007, 09:29 AM
thanks for the part #!



have you installed one of these? what do they mean by "The kit does require a moderate level of fabrication ability, including welding skills"? what needs to be done to fit this? and what is CDI ignition? it says i need that also.



The unit attaches to a 12a distributor. I just recieved mine, I will look more closely at it tonight and get back to you tomorrow. It does come with detailed instructions and all required parts (minus the 12a distributor of course).



Here is a pic of it installed on one of the Atkins Supercharged motors.

Clarks7 09-06-2007 11:12 PM


Originally Posted by sen2two' post='882083' date='Sep 6 2007, 09:29 AM
thanks for the part #!



have you installed one of these? what do they mean by "The kit does require a moderate level of fabrication ability, including welding skills"? what needs to be done to fit this? and what is CDI ignition? it says i need that also.





Okay, here is the deal. It all depends on your setup for how much you have to fabricate. If you use the 20b water pump you have to modify the alternator adjustment bracket (the RB instructions have a template for this) for distributor clearance (or you could use a water pump from a 13b, but they warn cavitation of the 13b waterpump over 7000rpm and you would have to change your pulley ratio)... if you can weld, the modified alternator bracket doesn't look difficult... If you use a 13b water pump there are some other block off plates you need to build... again, easier to use the 20b pump. but all the instructions and templates are in the RB instructions for using either setup. That is the short jest for mounting the system. You will also have to change the factory 12a ignitors to (they are not powerful or reliable enough) for something like an MSD setup (it makes sense).



If you are anybit handy, RB has step by step instructions. If you are concerned about it, they will to the labor for you for approx an extra $140.



Hope that was descriptive enough.

sen2two 09-07-2007 04:59 PM

thanks man! very helpful!



i can weld and my fabbing skills are decent. thanks for all the help.

hsmidy 09-07-2007 08:08 PM

just to note the cdi ignition stands for capacitor discharge ignition(like what ya get on a chainsaw)

Clarks7 09-07-2007 08:26 PM


Originally Posted by hsmidy' post='882199' date='Sep 7 2007, 06:08 PM
just to note the cdi ignition stands for capacitor discharge ignition(like what ya get on a chainsaw)





Sometimes I would like to take a chainsaw to my 20b!



I am still struggling to decide to stay with EFI or switch to a carb. I spoke with Pineapple today, and they had some interesting ideas for mounting carbs...

Jeff20B 09-08-2007 12:35 PM

I stuggled too. I eventually went EFI with a MegaSquirt. I got it to run well enough to drive it around the block. That's it so far.

Clarks7 09-08-2007 08:09 PM


Originally Posted by Jeff20B' post='882238' date='Sep 8 2007, 10:35 AM
I stuggled too. I eventually went EFI with a MegaSquirt. I got it to run well enough to drive it around the block. That's it so far.





Mike and I got mine to run around on the stock ecu for awhile, but we were trying to trick the ecu thinking it was seeing all the solenoids, odds and ends... but something was off.



We than tried hooking up a Haltech E11V2 to the stock wiring harness... we thought we found a short... so we tried to make a wiring harness from the existing 20b harness just for he Haltech... needless to say, that didn't work...



I would like to try and track down a Haltech wiring harness and attach it to the factory sensors/ solenoids (ie. TPS, map, air, injectors, coils, and dist.). We were able to get readings from each of the necessary components for this to run (plus I was running a map that was driving another 20b)... but I have a funny feeling I might have to use the Haltech sensors and solenoids (which would suck).



Why not weld two Weber flanges to the side of the plenum add a couple 48 ida's hook gas and a throttle cable (along with the 20b dizzy) and call it good. At least I would get to drive my FC vert again!



Pineapple suggested taking 2 13b intake manifolds, cut one in half, run a both sides of the 48 ida on the uncut side and bolt another 48 ida to the cut side and have blank injectors (essentially rendering it non-op). Rob (at pineapple) said it was the easiest way and guarantee’s the manifold is designed properly. Or just take two Peripheral Port Weber intakes from RB and do the same thing with a down draft carb...



I don't know, I am open to suggestions! I have all the parts (minus the wiring harness) for the EFI. But there is something simple and unique by doing the carbs!

Jeff20B 09-09-2007 01:34 PM

I can't tell you what to do.

Clarks7 09-09-2007 11:37 PM


Originally Posted by Jeff20B' post='882299' date='Sep 9 2007, 11:34 AM
I can't tell you what to do.



Yeah, I know. It is just a matter of how much time and money I want to spend.



I think I will pick up a Hatech wiring harness and give it a shot. I also have a line in an extra plenum. It would be cool to try and weld a couple IDO flanges on the side where the throttle body would be and add two side draft 48/51 ida's!



Thanks for the advice, and good luck with yours!

Jeff20B 09-11-2007 11:45 AM

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...ost&id=7980

Clarks7 09-11-2007 06:06 PM


Originally Posted by Jeff20B' post='882462' date='Sep 11 2007, 09:45 AM





Did you make that?



Also, addressing your old post on carb'd 20b,



I was thinking the stock plenum with two ~48 (or 51) sidedraft ida’s replacing the throttle body would do the trick. Each ida is about 6in and the plenum is about 12in wide. And by having the ida’s spread across the entire plenum that should allow each rotor to receive plenty of fuel (without messing with factory R/D, and leaning out either the front or rear rotor). Can you think of any difficulties with that design?


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