I have heard a lot of stories about the differences, but what is the truth??

Is there a big difference??

What are the differences??

Please explain it as well as you can!

And if you're not sure, stay out of the discussion!



Hope you understand my bad english...

according to the parts book, the steels and tension bolts are updated

A-E are all the same. If you get one of the number only engines it was one of the originals without the updated parts.



-Destin

Wrong....................



The first 3 batches had the same end plates however, for the C-series, Mazda cast more meat onto the end plate around the top dowell to prevent cracking.



The first batch (000-999) had supect E-shafts. Mazda made a production change for the A-series & thats the only shaft you can get now. The first batches where very unreliable & most got changed under warranty.



There may be other changes that I am unaware of but they would be very minor.



REgards

My 20B showed signs of being messed with. The rotor housings were stamped with F, C(or M), R and the oil pan surface at the bottom of the engine had been scraped. The production number is #756. Do you think the shaft was replaced at some point?

Thanks for the correction.



I had to go back and re-read. There's alot of good info in this thread from the other forum.



http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...1&page=1&pp=15



-Destin

my parts book (which is an early one) doesnt show a different e shaft part number?

NF01-11-D00B is what i show, oh ok yeah NF01-11-D00C in the 97 parts book....



well i guess thats proof to the myth....

Mine says D591 on al 3 rotor housings, guess I'm a lucky dude :p exept that the 2 rear side plates are garbage because of te guys who prepared the engine cleaned it of with water, and the inlet gasket on the rear rotor was broken so water came in.. rotor housings ware al 3 in exellent condition..

I have B029 and hope to install it in June.

I have 539 (no numbers) and have never had a problem with the eshaft.



When engine was pulled down, apex seals were faily well worn showing engine had been running for a long time without problems. All parts were perfect inside apart from the worn seals.

I hope mine'll be that good.

The E shaft was updated to a stronger one. I want to say C but I could be wrong on that.

Mine was marked the same way. F one the front..C on the center...and R on the rear. My motor didnt appear to ever been into so I assumed these were factory marks.



Bob Mears

Perhaps they are factory marks. Perhaps only the rear oil pressure regulator was changed. It reads up past 100 psi when cold. I think it was j9fd3s that said the 20B only came with 70 psi stock, and only the FD was higher. Maybe some of the 20Bs were higher too?



I'm very curious to see which shaft is in my engine.

mine was stamped 246 on all the housings...

Also, the thick intermediate housings have a thicker/reinforced dowell area on the D-series engine. I've seen two straight of the crates like that. Not sure if they started that with the C or D series but my B series engine certainly doesn't have the thick plate reinforced. Only the front iron is reinforced on my B-series engine.

My engine is stamped with D571 I believe. It looks super clean and it definitely wasn't easy to get ahold of. I plan to install it in my FD over the winter and will do a compression check before doing so to make sure everythings up to par.

Ehm..



F means front, C means center and R means rear.. this is for the way the egr crap in the housings is located..



Normally the production number is around the 20B area above the spark plugs..