Lol indeed.



Oh, and it's off topic but I thought you'd appreciate that I got my first don't tread on me bomber sticker. It'll be the first (and probably only) sticker going on after she's painted

@1988RedT2: you are the man I am forever in your debt. I was about to go out and buy a whole new engine and tranny while I was at the engine. I'm still blowing blue smoke though so I mighthave to get just new seals cuz of all the added fluid into the system I think it might have blown one of the seals. $900 seal kit is better than $2600 rebuilt engine in my book.



@thatpoorguy: my car doesn't accelerate well unless my foot is barely on or all the way on the gas. I guess I need something adjusted or maybe just a tune up in general. I know I don't have an O2 sensor but is there anything that possibly corrects a lean or rich fuel mixture that's maybe broken? Or could the fact that I got the cat delete pipe cause the mix to be too rich?

In order to change the seals you still have to rebuild the engine. Tranny fluid doesn't burn well and residual oil can be burning off causing the smoke. Without a cat it'll smoke more because the engine intentionally burns engine oil to lubricate the apex seals. As long as the smoke isn't overly excessive you're fine but you may want to run some fuel system treatment to break up the deposits left in the engine. For tuning the nikki it's the easiest to do with an O2 and a/f gauge, but you can do without. Turn the mixture screw clockwise till it starts to bog down, then turn counter clockwise about a quarter turn. Turning clockwise leans it out, counterclockwise rich.

Glad to help. And please don't buy a new engine or do a rebuild until you've done a compression check.

Where can I get a compression tester for a rotary cuz I know they are different what would be the psi numbers that would be considered normal? I am burning a little bit of blue but im starting to think it could be less concentrated tranny fluid or otherwise that so much tranny fluid has been in there that maybe it caused a rubber seal to degrade. I know ATF can do a number on rubber soled shoes and tires if left in contact for too long.

And thank you thatpoorguy thats a good trick to know instead of taking it in for a tune. It would be noticably smoking blue and/or thick white everytime I was stopped and sometimes upon acceleration after being stopped. I didn't see a trail following me when I was driving but then agaisours impossible to know unless someone is following you to verify it. It seemed odd though that I was burning oil cuz despite the amount of smoke thati saw I never noticed a drop in oil level. I should tune the mixture when the engine is at operating temp right? Thanks again for the input everyone, the discovery of the fact that i might not need a new engine/rebuild made my day lol.

I'm not exactly sure what else could be causing your smoke, but sounds like it's primarily when the engine is in vacuum. Redt2, are there any other vacuum lines that could be getting engine oil? I don't think it has a pcv valve but I can't really remember.



Yes, the engine needs to be up to temp and you want to make sure the idle is set correctly too before messing with the mixture or it may throw you off a bit. Have you downloaded the fsm's from here? A lot of mazda's specifications and tuning instructions are in it to help walk you through it.

I have the hanes manual for my car but some of the info is a bit off. It told me I take around 5.5 qts. Of oil when I put in 3.5 and I was close to overfilling it. Ever since then I haven't trusted it much besides for torque specs and fluid flush procedures. Mighta just been a typo or that the older 12a's maybe came with a larger oil pan. I'll take a look at what it says for idle and fuel mix adjustment. Otherwise I'll download the ones on here. They might be 10x better than the one I got. It probably is better though cuz it's pretty hard to loose a computer or to get grease all over imaginary pages lol

Cool article here:



http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-10...ion/index.html



More info on compression testing here:



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/top...ster-question/





Regarding the smoking, once you get the mixture about right, get someone to follow you on a WOT run to redline and get them to tell you if it smokes.

Oh so the whole idea is that the gauge isn't supposed to hold pressure in order to check the first puff of each rotor face. Otherwise it'll be the combined compression of all 3 rotor faces. If I understand correctly the "tire stem" valve at the end is supposed to let stuff in but not back into the comb. chamber when it's on. And after I get my modulator and tune it what's the problem if it still smokes at WOT? Oil control ring I'm guessing?