I have a holley carb that is an alleged 600 cfm and i dont' know if it is the RB modifyed one. My car does not have any vaccume lines connected to the distributor and the OMP lines are pushed into the carb thru a hole made in the air cleaner. This sounds very half a$$ed and i know but it wasn't me, and i want to change it. The car runs fine, but the choke cable is not long enough to reach, so i have a high idel approx~ 1750 rpm and a rich mixture to compensate. It eats huge amounts of gas but it should be feeding fuel enough to not run lean. It starts up reliably every time but would like to change the way the OMP lines are connected and add some vaccume to advance the timing in the distributor.



another problem is that the rear rotor header pipe glows orange a night most of the time while the front rotor does not. The oil pan shows signs of extreme heat near the rear. At idle, 1 rotor fires consistantly, while the 2nd comes and goes at will. The motor has again, an alleged 78,000 miles. any help would be immensely appreciated! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif

Do a compression test and make sure the back rotor is still in good shape, or you may just have some trash in the carb messin up your idle(pissin the fuel instead of atomizing it). I would ditch the carb or at least have it rebuilt by someone if not yourself. Your exhaust temps shouldnt be that high, maybe with a turbo but not N/A. I take it you arent running cats at all?

no cats, full racing beat exhuast front to back. my accelerator pump just pisses into the throat and will stall the car off idle if i floor it. I'll get to a compression test asap, probobly monday if i can. i will probobly need to identify my carb b4 i can get a rebuild kit, but i bought a book ok holley carburetors today and it should help me with that.

If you do not feel good about the OMP lines then "T" them together and feed them through the fuel bowl sight plug. Drill a hole into the brass plug and epoxy a thin tube the same size as the lines.



That carburator needs to come apart and be cleaned thoroughly. That second rotor problem could be a clogged passage somewhere. Also check the Idle mixture needles to make sure they are set evenly.



Good Luck, post pics to get an ID of the carb. If not then just look for the numbers on the choke horn. Cross ref in the book or post them up... I have my book handy.

wow, thank you armyofone, very very useful about the OMP lines. when i return from vacation i'll do that first thing.



i would take pictures except i have a 28.8Kbps dial up connection.



as far as the clog....should i check the intake manifold? remove it and look into its passages as well as the passageways in the engine side irons? I've been reading my book and from the pictures it looks like a 4150 or a 4160, whichever one had mechanical secondaries...unless its vaccume and they are rigged up mechanically.......with some of the things i've seen on this car, i wouldn't be suprized. does anybody know what carb RB uses for their holley kit?



i changed my spark plugs and found that they were loose in the rear rotor, so i was losing compression there, but it still didn't change anything when i replaced them and tightened them. I put in denso's but am looking for some NKG's. auto zone didn't carry them but they said i could return the denso's before 60 days.

Hey quick question Army if yer still lookin, Do the RB prepped Holleys run power valves anymore or do they get blocked off?

The ones I have seen do have a power valve. I think RB uses a 575 CFM.

All you have to do is measure the manifold vacuum at idle and buy a Holley PV that is 2" down from your idle reading. I just stepped mine down and it made a world of difference. It really wakes the beast up when it comes on power.



The clogged passages I was talking about are the small holes and such in the carburator. Not the intake.

[quote name='ArmyOfOne' date='Jul 4 2005, 01:16 PM']The ones I have seen do have a power valve. I think RB uses a 575 CFM.

All you have to do is measure the manifold vacuum at idle and buy a Holley PV that is 2" down from your idle reading. I just stepped mine down and it made a world of difference. It really wakes the beast up when it comes on power.



The clogged passages I was talking about are the small holes and such in the carburator. Not the intake.


[/quote]





Whats yer Vac pull at idle and what is the idle on your bridgey?

It pulls 9.5 in. at 1500 RPM Idle. All I can say is... holey overlap on an open plenum Batman!!!

ok, finally got high speed internet, here's a pic of my holley, what is it?





http://www.angelfire.com/trek/terrat...ation/carb.bmp