I was on my way back from a job site and the transmission locked me out at a stop light. I could put it into neutral and it would go into reverse with a bit of grinding and a bunch of nasty clunking sounds. I pushed it to the side of the road and bled the clutch to no avail. It would shift into all gears easily with the car off, so I poured some gear oil around the shifter ball and shifted it around a bit. Putting it into first and starting the car with the clutch disengaged made a bit of a clunking noise, but it would shift after that.



I didn't have any grinding or lock outs the entire 100ish mile trip home. I even stopped to get gas and hit a ton of stop lights. Not a bit of grinding on any gear or resistance to me shifting. I'm sure all of my tower and shifter seals/bushings are toast, so I think I might be losing the gear oil in my shift tower on a regular basis...



I also get a periodic rattling/clanking noise at idle. Sounds like it's coming out of the shift tower. Most of the time it only occurs with the transmission shifted into a gear and the clutch disengaged. Other times it just rattles nonstop whether I'm in gear or not. Tossing gear oil into the tower seems to shut it up...

sounds like worn out clutch

pilot bearing ?

id say the clutch itself. from what you stated it sounds like the clutch plate is worn down and not engaging.

Most definitely your clutch

sounds like broken clutch... any updates?

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

Was going to try rebuilding my master/slave on the wild chance it might be hydraulic related. The kit(s) I got from Advance don't seem to fit either unit. The piston in my master seems to black metal and has a front as well as rear o-ring seal. The replacement only has a front seal and seems to have holes on the end of the piston. It also has a metal washer that my previous kit did not. The replacement slave piston seems to be too small for my old unit...fluid just leaks around it and the spring seems to be a different length/diameter...

Every kit I can find online is the same way with only one seal ring. Makes me wonder if it even belongs on my car...stupid parts houses are always trying to sell me Cougar XR7 parts or a 'replacement oxygen sensor'...

Tried to use the 'replacement' piston in my unit, but it would only move fluid around in the reservoir...not a drop out of the line.

The clutch pedal has never been overly stiff (as compared to the few other stick vehicles I've driven in my life) and it has to travel about 1/3 of the way before it starts to move the master piston. From there it travels all the way to the floor without much resistance. I had my wife hold the pedal down to verify it moves the transmission fork, but no idea how far it should move it...

I think I'm going to order a 'new' (not rebuilt) master and slave along with a replacement hard and slave line from mazdatrix just to make sure something isn't wonky.

Looking through the paperwork in my glovebox (which is everything from the window stickers in 1984 to now) I managed to figure out I currently have 49,000 miles on the rebuilt engine and new clutch kit. Doesn't seem like it should be dead yet...but what do I know.

As far as clutch kits go is the EXEDY Part # 10025 a good one to go with? That seems to be the model most rotary specific places stock, but I see quite a few other brands online...all of which seem to be identical.

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

sounds hydraulics related. If the clutch was worn down, it wouldn't engage, but since you are getting some grinding and clacking it sounds like the clutch is already engaged. I am not sure if the clutch pedal has an engagement point adjustment, but thats something to check also.

As for the rattling sound, is this at idle while stopped or moving?

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

I get a metal on metal grinding noise at idle. I can have the clutch on the floor, or have it neutral and it's still there. It also squalls from time to time almost like a belt slipping...only I hear it coming from the transmission.

It's hard to tell if I'm getting noise while driving. Can't really hear anything over the engine, road noise, etc.

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

you may just need to bleed your clutch hydraulics. Try that before you spend the money on the new master and slave.

Its normal to get some clacking at idle when in neutral. Its your flywheel spinning and is especially pronounced if its a lightweight flywheel. It will be louder with the clutch engaged, because both the clutch and flywheel are spinning in that case. If you kick the clutch in and it doesn't change, then it sounds like its something else. Not sure what it would be in that case. I would consider driveshaft a possibility, but you should look that up.

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

I've had this thing since I was 16, so I'm fairly used to all the odd noises it makes. This is not something I've ever head before and certainly not anything healthy. Driveshaft got replaced about 20K miles or so ago. U-joint went bad so I had a local shop replace the entire driveshaft.

You can still hear the normal 'wrrrrrr' from putting the car in neutral. It doesn't seem to change the clunking at all...its just clunking + normal noises.

Here is a video I've posted to youtube:

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

is it that noise at 3:40? I hear a clacking noise at 5:20ish, which sounds like a rattle of sorts. maybe from interior trim panels.

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

It's some of the same clacking coming from down in the transmission, or from behind the dash...take your pick. That noise was very loud and angry when I got locked out of all the gears. It was strange. I could shift the car fine without it running, but the moment I started it up I was locked out.

I notice input shaft and and main shaft bearings when I'm looking at clutch kits...what would those sound like if they were going out and would they have any impact on me being able to shift?

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

input shaft and main shaft bearings? I assume you are talking about the throwout and pilot bearings?

Those pretty easy to diagnose, one makes a sound when the clutch is pushed in, the other makes a sound when the clutch is not pushed in.

Transmission lockout you are describing is usually clutch related (or if you actually have electronic shift gates). If the clutch is engaged, it makes it very difficult to put the gear in place. Thanks to your synchros of course.

bleed/drain the clutch fluid, see if that helps, if not, master+slave+ soft line are next. You should also be checking for any clutch fluid leaks when you do this.

Video is not very clear on the noise, I would think thats more of an interior panel noise or perhaps something thats come lose or unhinged and is clacking on stuff near it. But that's a guess at best.

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

They look very similar in photos, so it's probably the same product being sold under a different name. I've got all new hydraulics and lines on the way. Will update after I've bench bled and installed.

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

they are, just on different ends of the assembly. Although there is probably/possibly minor difference between the two.

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

Master Cylinder :
https://www.nopistons.com/attachment...ine=1327980653
1984rx7clutchmaster by falcoln0014, on Flickr

Slave Cylinder:
https://www.nopistons.com/attachment...ine=1327980653
1984rx7clutchslave by falcoln0014, on Flickr

Master cylinder piston is on the left and the piston from a B&A rebuild kit is on the right. The one on the right is the same piston I see with every 84 master kit I can find online. My new B&W cylinder that came in has an identical piston to the rebuild kit (but black metal instead of plastic). Inserting the new piston into my old cylinder did nothing. It would only move fluid around inside the canister on the cylinder.
https://www.nopistons.com/attachment...ine=1327980653
masteroldleftnewright by falcoln0014, on Flickr

Piston out of my slave cylinder on the left and rebuild on the right. I don't think they're the same size, because fluid simply ran around the rebuild cylinder.
https://www.nopistons.com/attachment...ine=1327980653
slaveoldleftnewright by falcoln0014, on Flickr

I'm about to get out the micrometer and check each piston to verify diameters...will post that in a few minutes.

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

Old Master Piston: .620 in rings (2), 2.220 in long before back stud.
New Master Piston: .620 in ring, 2.026 in long.

Old Slave Piston: .759 in ring, 1.324 in long
New Slave Piston: .820 in ring (will easily compress down to old size, but that might be the leak problem.), 1.320 in long

I think the largest issue is the double rings on the master piston. Obviously the rebuild kit wouldn't work with it, so it's probably good I got a brand new one to replace it. New hard and stainless lines for the master/slave should be in tomorrow.

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

Attachment 13398 Clutch kit came in, but I don't see a 'pilot bearing seal' in the kit as I've see in some photos. I'm guessing I need to order a new one before having it put in? That's what I've been reading.

Attachment 13399Probably has something to do with my coolant leak...

Attachment 13400Bolt snapped. Soaking in WD and will deal with it later.

Attachment 13401New thermostat cover. Probably good I found this online as the old one looks pretty sad.

Attachment 13402Past time for a coolant flush?

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

interesting, a clutch kit without a pilot bearing?

I am confused by the differences in the clutch kit. Are they for different years? seems they sent you the wrong ones.

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

It just seems to be missing the pilot bearing seal. From what I've read the 'older' style kits didn't come with one, but it helps prolong the bearing life by keeping bits of clutch dust out of it. I need a few misc hoses for my heater so I may just order them with one...

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

Attachment 13410Tried an ez-out on the old bolt and snapped it in half. Regular drill bit would just bounce off. Cobalt drill bit would just bounce off. Sharpened a carbide tipped masonry bit and cut through it like butter. Shattered carbide tip when I went all the way through the ez-out and bolt hitting cast block.
Attachment 13411Threading hole back to 8x1.25 like a boss.
Attachment 13412New thermostat housing mounted as just to see if it fits. I still need to clean up the block mounting surface a bit and most likely use some silicone to help it seal. It's a bit pitted from years of leaking...
Attachment 13413Replacing the o-rings on my beehive so it won't leak all over my engine anymore. I was considering replacing the two on the block, but those won't leak on the radiator hose under the beehive. Not sure if I want to risk cracking the banjo bolts. I can live with a small leak. I'm pretty sure the main leak was coming from between the beehive and mounting plate. It had fresh oil smeared all across the entire surface when I pulled it off. Got some Viton o-rings. Do these look like the correct size, or do I need to go down a size (or possibly two)? The ones in the pic are 13.95x2.62 and have a little wiggle room on all sides...not much. Also have 12.37x2.62 and 10.77x2.62...
Attachment 13414Also curious what the little metal cylinder is in the lower right of the photo. Wire has been brittle for a while, but it finally broke while I was messing with the slave cylinder. I thought it might have been some sort of thermal doo-dad or something that went with the old emissions system...never have figured it out, but figured I should check to see if I need to solder a new wire on it or not...

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

Got all the new hydraulics working, coolant lines in place, coolant added, etc. Car started up fine considering it's been sitting a few weeks. Had a few drops of coolant leaking from the top hose, but I cranked down the hose clamp and it stopped.

Transmission now is locking me out entirely. It would let me into gears every once in a while but it makes metallic clanking or clunking when I do get in. Also, can't hear any difference when I put it into neutral and let out the clutch. Tried the trick where I started it in first to break it loose, but it just lunges the car forward a little bit. I've accidentally started it in gear before, so I know it will usually lunge forward quite a bit. This feels more like the clutch is bouncing in and out of engagement.

Here's a video clip of the slave working, or at least I think it's working. I bled it a few times and I have decent pedal pressure. I did notice it only has to travel about an inch before hitting the hydraulics. My old system would take around 6 inches.

http://youtu.be/s5AjGg-p0ik

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

I also noticed the oil wasn't traveling up my OMP lines very fast. Does it not move very fast at idle? I guess it could be the heavy oil I use as well. Had it at an idle for about 5 minutes or so and oil was about 1/2 way up the line. Perhaps I should start pre-mixing?

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

The "silver cylinder" is a ground capacitor. While you are doing heavy maintenance go ahead and reso all your grounds

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

Soldered new leads onto the ground capacitor. Oil/voltage gauges seem to be behaving now, or it could just be in my head.

Now that it's locking me out entirely I'm trying to figure out what is different on my new hydraulic system vs the old. Besides the master cylinder being entirely different inside. Slave cylinder bits look a little different, but basically the same when I test them with the digital caliper.

If my old master didn't belong on the car then it would make me think it could drive the fork further or not as far as it needs to operate? Over time would that cause the correct hydraulic system to not function with the clutch?

I have a photo of the difference in pistons on the second page of this post...

I hate to put the old hydraulics on just to drive it to a shop...perhaps a shim on the slave, or a swift kick?

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

Disconnected the slave cylinder to see what would happen and the transmission is in gear, or at least it feels like it is. Not sure if I'm supposed to have this much play in the fork either...

http://youtu.be/bS_Lhdpb8G0

I managed to get a new yoohoo belt on. Old one was trashed. Going to try and switch out to the old (leaking and weak) slave to see if I can get any function out of the transmission. It worked before, so if I could at least get it to a repair shop that would be spiffy.

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

No go. I'm having this thing hauled to a shop tomorrow. Something isn't right with the clutch. At this point I'd drive it into a volcano...if it would move.

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

Looks likee the fingers on the fork aren't on the pivot correctly

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

They've been on it correctly for about 49,000 miles best I can tell by my documentation in the glove box. I guess that's far enough on one clutch, but the first one was still good at 120,000...

Re: Transmission Locking Me Out
 

the omp does work quite slow at low rpm's ive noticed that too. i premix 1 oz per 4 gallons just to put a little extra lube on the seals. the clutch pedal does have an adjustment on it. it should have 7.5 inches between the middle of the clutch pedal and the floor. if its not there then it may need to be adjusted. if you have some good pressure in your clutch then i don't think the hydraulics would be a problem.