Can someone post up a pic of what it looks like?

Don't have any pics - maybe this will help:



pre '83: go to your local parts store and buy a generic metal 5/16" fuel filter.

Affix two wires at one end next to the inlet. If the inlet and oulet were

at right angles to the body, you would have the actual pump. I think it will work

about as well.



83-85: rotary pump - about 2/3 of the length is the motor. The last 1/3

is a little larger in diameter, and houses the actual pump impeller.

Both hoses connect somewhere on this end.



Other than that - check eBay. Sometimes they have a pic.

Well the thing I pulled has no electrical going to it?!

if you look right under the drivers bin, thats where it is

Alright, I'm about to go check it out again.

FPR?



I thought this would be located close to the engine, but I don't know squat about FPRs. Is it a good idea to get a new one since my motor will be requiring more fuel? Will the pressure need to be higher or lower?

i think thats the roll over valve. you're too high up, fuel pump is lower and further forward

Alrighty, that's what I originally took out and thought, WTF? I'll get a better look tomorrow morning. I was thinking I'm going to need to fab something to hold the Walbro in place...but I don't know what the stock fuel pump looks like yet, so I don't know if I can use the same mounting system or not. I guess I'll know more tomorrow.

The fuel pump is mounted on a plate that I think is held in with rubber vibration mounts.



The pic above looks like the vent valve - it came from way up high?



There isn't really a fuel pressure regulator on a stock 12A. Your Cosmo

engine should have the correct regulator on the fuel rail.

Keep the vent valve; you'll probably have to ditch the roll over valve.

Some guy on the "other" forum (search for "project kramer") had some

info on the GSL-SE gas tank, which I think is the same as the 85 12A

but with different in/out tubes going into it - you need to replace

this part with a GSL-SE one.

None of the pics work anymore!



That's why I'm making a website when this is all said and done.



Can I not just get the fittings I need for this pump to hook up to what's already there?



Would it be worth it to run new fuel lines?

Yet another '84-'85 fuel pump weirdness thread. What I mean by that is the fuel pump won't run unless the trailing coil is something something. It's a relay that turns the fuel pump off for safety reasons.

You'd have to see the other forum to understand. It seems to pop up there like once a week.

Well I don't want you to think I'm acting like the other forum...LOL.



Got the Walbro in place where the old pump was...now for fittings and new hoses. All the hoses under there are exhibiting dry-rot!

the 84-85 setup works like this: dizzy sends tach signal to ecu, ecu sees it and turns on pump. the 79-83 setup just has the pump connected to the "on" position of the ignition switch

With the Haltech, am I going to need anything else to make the pump work?

no, just use the haltech fuel pump wires, thats what they there for

Excellen, I was thinking/hoping as much!



Thanks as always for the help.

The 12A type fuel pick up tube may be too small of a straw for the bigger

pump to suck through. The GSL-SE pick up is much larger.

The existing steel lines running to the engine compartment are probably ok -

if you want to upgrade, just run a new 3/8" line to the front and use the old

feed line as the return.

You also need to run new wires to the pump - the stock wiring harness isn't up

to the job. I've even had problems powering a 6 psi pump for a carb. Use about

12 gauge or so from the battery (fused) to a relay (haltech may have provided one)

to the pump. Also don't use the harness ground wire - it's no good either. Just

run a wire from the pump ground to a conventient chassis bolt.

Thanks for the info, I will check with the new RX-7 parts store I found locally.

I have a spool of 10 guage which I'll use to power the pump. It also has a 10 or 15 amp fuse (whatever the instructions called for). I'm going to wire up a relay soon.



Get this; I'm using all three 1/4" tubes Y'd together as sending lines. One was the original sending, one was return, and one was a tank breather. It's got a fuel cell which uses a different type of breather, so I figured three quarters equals at least a 5/16" if not close to a 3/8" in flowing ability. It does seem to flow quite well from what I've seen during testing. What do you think?

Make sure your relay connections are tight and very secure. I have a nice melted relay sitting here that resulted from inadequate contact (excessive contact resistance leads to heating, which loosens the terminal, repeating the cycle). Well it was controlling a big pump.... If you have the proper relay socket, that's much better than crimp terminals.

10 wg is fine.

I'm assuming this is for a carb setup with no return? I suppose Y-ing the lines is okay, just maybe a little messy. And the feed line is only 1/4"? I thought those were always 5/16".

he's got a glc, the stock engine is so weak that they almost dont need a feed line....

Precisely!

Nope, thats the vent/check valve for the fuel tank. It keeps the tank pressure close to atmospheric pressure. Dont block this off. If the valve is bad, either replace it, or bypass it by connecting a pipe between the hoses. You dont want fuel fumes accumulating in that area so they need to be vented appropriately.

Ah-hah!



That makes sense! Rest assured it is back where it came from...