1983 RX-7 GSL



Ok now that it's good an broke I think i can find the problem now...



It will start an the die the second you touch the gas...



The problem is still not regular but it has gotten to the point where I'm afraid to drive it because I never know when it will act up.....



I think it may be in the fuel system an not the ignition system now.



I found one of the fuel check valve(in the engine compartment on te firewall) an the pump but where is the filter at?



Also can you still buy th 12A an 13B engine new from any where our mazda dealer said they still make them but they didn't carry it I wuld like to find a 13B to make a swap with

there are a ton of engine builders, Atikins, RB, mazdatrix, Pineapple racing, rx7.com(here in TX), Marvelspeed(also in TX), I would contact them for prices and such.



I would buy a good used motor, as just putting in a 13b will set you back a bundle.



intake & carb---$800(new)

motor----$2500(rebuilt)

header & exhaust-----$300(minimum)



that's if you find a motor with GSL-SE oil pan and front cover. Those are usually extra.

the fuel filter is under the car by the drivers rear wheel, right beside the fuel pump. CHECK FOR VACUUM LEAKS. it sounds like this could be the case.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif Thank you for the info on the fuel filter I replaced it an it solved my problem she runs great again an she' got her kick back in her.



Thanks for the info on the engine builders too.. I taled to a guy up north who said there where shops up there who installed Chevy 350's into these cars gonna look into that That would make for some real speed in a car this light.....



Do you think if I could find a third generation donor that's been wrecked out the engine would trade out?

ok. there is a site called granny's speed shop that specializes in, among other things, putting V-8's in rotaries. :(



Do not forget that adding a 350 will make the car heavier, and probably spoil the spectacular handleing characteristics.



Not to mention the fact that fitting a 350 or a FD motor in a Fb would be a doozey of an effort.



If you want turbo, go with the T2 motor & tranny setup. Cheap, fast, and has been done before. Jspec motors can be had for $1k.

hey do what im doin .......... rebuild it and make it carb/turbo it cheaper than FI and will make the same amount of power. actually yours is cheaper to make turbo cuz you got a 12a all you need is a holley 600 dbl pmpr, turbo and manifold, fuel pump and regulator. ohh and you should pin the motor for safety. also you have to mod the carb for turbo application cuz it will leek under pressure. if you want some more info just ask i,m in the process of doin all this to my 1st gen with a 13b 6 port. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...

you will make more power with FI than a carb, especially under boost. And you will have less chance of gernading the motor with FI as opposed to a blow-through setup. Dont get me wrong, blow-throughs can make some good power, but for everyday, cold-starting. daily driving, give me FI, and I wont blow it up.

well i wont argue with you on the reliability part, but as far as making more power with FI thats not true. some of the fastest rotaries i,ve been in and seen are running carbs. actually turbo magazine had an article on an rx3 runining 8's with a carb setup. also the carb setup is easier on the pockets. ohh as far as the motor blowing easier with carbs than FI ....regardless of your setup if the motor is not tuned right or built right( reinforced dowel pins and engine studs and 3mm apex seals) then i dont give a **** what setup you got it aint gonna last long under boost.

The fastest cars are FI equiped, including the fastest and quickest rotaries.



The cost of a new manifold, carb, intake, etc. is about what you would pay to strap an aftermarket ECU on your existing FI car. (I believe the carb would be slightly cheaper than FI if both bought used)



It is easier to tune a FI car so it is eaier to stay away from blowing it up.