ok, so pick up my car from rotorsports yesterday. its tuned running really well at full throttle but a little like ass at partial throttle, but they fixed a bunch of little things for me so its all good the car was running so i was happy. get up early this morning to finish up a few little details on the car, go to move it into the garage and the car won't start. not only won't it start, nothing happens when i turn the key. check the battery, its giving me bout 11.5 volts, should atleast be able to click the starter or something right? check the distribution block for voltage (relocated battery) got the same voltage the battery os giving me. i have to go to work so i push the car into the garage and mill around at work all day with it on my mind.



i call Brian at rotorsports, he tells me he had the same problem and that i should charge the battery. i figure he's a pro i'll listen to him, i get home charge the battery for a while it gets up to about 12.5 volts or so. i try to start the car, nothin. i check the ignition switch itself, none of the wires leading to it is getting any power. i dunno why, any ideas are much appreciated i only got a few hours of boost out of her and i want more!!!



Loi

Maybe you blew a fuse or something. Theres gotta be a short somewhere and when you turned the key, it might have blew a fuse or capacitor or something. I guess it depends on how electronic your ignition is. That happend on a Honda I owned. I turned the key one day and there was like a zap sound, then nothing worked. Turned out to be a fuse. I'd suggest you check all fuses and electronic capacitors and modules. You'll eventually track it down.

i've checked all the fuses and fusible links, everything is intact. the thing is, im not getting any power to the entire car. the only thing that works are the headlights, this is so frustrating....





Loi

main fuseable link? also maybe the battery terminals?

Yeah try cleaning the terminals with a battery terminal cleaner brush. that should help isolate the problem.



Dirty battery terminals can cause wonky electrical issues.

ok, it was the main fusible link. didn't look blown but it was apparently.... how do i swap out the fusible link assembly for the fuse setup in a 2nd gen? anyone give me a few pointers, help much appreciated guys. with nopistons this project would be dead in the water no doubt.



Loi





p.s. ill get some video up here as soon as i can. and the intercooler setup is working fantastic, cold pipe is very cold indeed.



Loi

EXCELLENT! yes video is required for you to continue your existance ;-)



I plan on doing the 2nd gen fuseable links as well here, soon. I may also adapt an audio distribution block to work. This looks a lot nicer, however you ahve to seal it up.

speaking of blown fuses, i have the wierdest problem. well like a dumbass when i went to put in the aftermarket head unit i didnt get a wire harness. so i cut off the stock plugs and tried to splice it directly in. after like 5 combinations of wires i was always getting the same result, the radio would only turn on if my lights were on. so once i think i finally get it figured out i blow a fuse, a 10. and since i only had 20's handy i stuck a 20 in the 10 slot and i accidently grounded a wire and blew the same fuse. or at least it would have blow that fuse, instead it went past it and shorted somewhere else. ON TOP OF THAT, one day i said what the hell and tried to wire up the head unit through the clock because its always on. now because of this short my clock only really works when my lights are on and i dont get power to the radio wires unless the lights are on. so this weekend my master plan is to run a 14 gauge line with a 20 amp inline fuse from my battery, through my firewall, and power up the radio clock and 2 switches directly. the switches will be eventually be for internal and external neon's.

ok guys, more problems have surfaced. 1st of all the car is eating fusible links like tic tacs, im pretty sure i have a short somewhere cuz when i leave the car sitting some place for a bit, i come back and the battery is too low on voltage for me to start the car. guess this is some of the things you have to deal with when working on a 19 y/o car...



Loi



o yea, anyone know the voltage for the main fusible link? hell the voltage for all the fusible links would be really helpful

hell yeah i know how you feel man, before i walk out to my car i hope it'll start. its been happening to me too same exact problem. sometimes i say screw it and pop the clutch. i need help too.......please..

narrowed it down to a bad alternator and the starting solenoid is going bad. man if its not one thing its another....



Loi

well, according to you you have a short with the radio, and that you using the "clock" lead (which is always on)



Try isolating that 1st.

that was jebenkurac with the radio thing...

Ok now I got a problem with my starter. I turn the key and nothing happens. Everything else springs to life like it should, but no function from the starter. Its a brand new starter. I've had it for 2 weeks and it had worked just an hour before. Any suggestions?



Im going to take it out and get it tested monday. For now I'll have to push start my 7. Thank god its a 2200 pound car and it only takes walking pace to start it. That and my street is a hill https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif . Oh well, it'll build some muscle. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif

ok, so i replaced the starter and alternator. she ran like a champ, comin down the road the car just shuts off. try to restart, turns over but won't start. my friends just happen to pass by and help me push her into a parking lot. turns out the fuel pump quit, jiggle the fuel pump and manage to get her running long enuff to get her home. man, if its not one thing its another...



Loi





its a brand new walbro inline fuel pump too!!! anyone know how to get into contact with walbro about warranty stuff?

all the fuses in my fuse block are good, i think it was a short in the wires. anyway i said **** the bs and i drilled a hole through the firewall and ran some 14 gauge from the battery to an inline fuse, and right up to the radio; along with some switches which ill later connect some neons too.

yea, so it wasn't the fuel pump but the fuel pump relay. replaced it and noticed the voltage is kinda funky, figure out the switched 12 volt running to the haltech isn't reading 12 volts anymore. no problem, switch the wire to a switched 12 volts and voila everything should be right again.



but no, the car wants to start but isn't. i swear, this is never gonna end!!!!





Loi