Directfreak

I realized once I ran all the wires that the flying lead should've been the way to go. You're right, though, just the ignition stuff needed to be lengthened, as well as the way I ran the e-fan wiring. There's quite a few wires that you don't need too.



I am not too bummed about the Holley, as my friend made 375rwhp on mild streetported TII engine, using a much smaller intercooler, a regular 60-1, and 19PSI. I helped him build it 3 years ago.



All my parts are more efficient, and flow significantly more, so I don't think 350rwhp is out of the question at 15PSI or so.



The intake doesn't bolt straight up, but he has a flange adapter that we made fit. Too bad the main runners aren't as large as the RE intake.



RACER-X,



I know it's not an E6K, but the power will definately be there. Amazing who much less cluttered the engine compartment looks already. Mine too is a weekend car, and I settled on a Mode One body, which I've had since February. I will make some small changes to it, with vents, and such though. At least now I will be able to make forward progress.

setzep

I think I ended up using all the wires except a few PWM outputs. I got lucky with the e-fan wiring, the wire was just long enough to reach the relay, I used the digital output because it had the longest wire vs all the PWM ones. I only used one PWM output, for BAC valve. Speaking of BAC valve... I hope you kept yours, MAN it's nice having it. I have it dialed in pretty well now. Before when I was just running off the throttle stop the engine would almost die when the e-fan turned on, now all I hear is a slight drag on it It will be real nice when you turn on you're A/C (you still have it right?) It's also real nice when starting the car when it's 20deg f in the morning (not a problem for you obviously), I have it hold 1200rpm until coolant reaches 130 deg.



Cool, as long as you have experience with carb'd turbos. I woulden't know where to start with tuning it. I like looking at the WB meter and moving arrow keys myself



When running my car on the g-tech pro a couple weeks ago it said 320hp running a peak of 15psi. But I don't know how heavy my car is.... so I just put in 2600#'s Looking back on it I think I should have put in a little more weight into the g-tech. It was me, a friend, full tank of gas, -se interior. hard to say... I went 12.48 but I had to lift at 11.22 sec due to boost creep (yeah.. yeah.. I'm going to fix that this winter) I wish I would have kept into it, maybe I would have got a high 11 Another bad thing was traction, I had horrible 2.2-2.48 60' times. On a run that I didn't do a burnout I spin in 3rd gear and got a 13.1 @112mph



Interesting to see how well this combo works out. I can't wait to hear your first impressions!

Directfreak

I know this thread has been Hijaked, buuuut





I did keep the BAC valve, but I did not install it. I was waiting to see if it was necessary or not. I didn't keep it because I switched to the larger FD throttlebody, and so I could use the Greddy Elbow. I was kinda hoping it wasn't necessary. But then again, I like the idea of your "Haltech Powered choke".



You sound like you have your car dialed in pretty friggin good. How did you get so good with the Haltech anyway? I am impressed. Sounds like you got a future in tuning.



You can use the WB with the carb setup as well, and as long as WOT on third gear redline is good, it should all be good. I went ahead and ordered the WB setup you have as well. I had unconsciously "donated" my old WB (Tech Edge 1.0) to Cris's shop anyway.





How do you plan on controlling this? Bigger WG? more muffler, or more boost?

setzep

heh, yeah sorry about the hijacking



The only way I can see you not needing the BAC is if you have the idle set to ~1000-1100. Once the a/c and e-fan kick in it might hold 800 or so that way. The only bad thing about the BAC is the noise. Even at low MS you can hear it over the injectors, kind of like a constant buzz but it's worth it to me.



I'm far from 100% tuned, more like 75%. I still need to do some part throttle tuning. I'd also like to make my TB more progressive. Right now both primary and secondary blades move together for the most part. If I jab the throttle quick it will stumble due to the secondary blades opening and no fuel being injected when those blades are open. I'd like to make the secondary blades start to crack open at about 30% throttle.



I woulden't say I'm "great" with the haltech. I'm just starting to learn how all this stuff comes together. So far I've done 100% of the tuning with the aid of a few people's suggestions. Matt Hitman has been a great help with his website and on the haltech yahoo list. He helped me realize the cosmo tps is a pos and the haltech one should be used. His site helped me set up the basic settings in the E6K and also gave me a good understanding how to control the BAC. BDC helped me setup my ign maps. From there it's in the tuning. Without my WB meter I'd be clueless. I also plan on getting a EGT gauge or two. To be honest tuning the car was the best part so far with this project for me. There was nothing better than leaning it out from very rich and being able to feel the boost for the first time From then on it's been kind of a mission to try to get it dialed in just right.



You better plan on tuning it in 4th gear with those 205's on the rear



I'm going to move the wastegate runners further down the main runners. They are far too close to the exhaust ports right now. I have a 7.25 spring in the WG and it creeps to 15 psi by 7k with a 46mm tial.