Sorry 'bout that didnt see your post before I replied.



It runs great in Neutral. Very smooth, before i got the carb rebuilt it would stutter and die in first or reverse if i didnt have my foot on the gas and the brake simultaneously. Now it's fine as long as I wait for it to warm up completely before I shift it into any gear.



1 Do you think your leaking oil bad enough to be loosing pressure?

No, the one sensor that does work well is my oil pressure and it is, on average, at 60.



2 Does the car act up in neutral or just when you put it in gear?

It only acts up (stalls) when I start it up cold, put it in reverse/drive, let off the brake and press the gas a bit. Sometimes if I let off the gas really quick it won't die, but if i floor it it'll cut off.



3 Have you already replaced the fuel filter and checked the pump?

I have not replaced the fuel filter, but plan to in the next hundred or so miles (no money). The pump has not been replaced.



4 Do you have a friend with a spare nikki that hasnt been rebuilt?

Nope.



5 Do you have a friend who knows transmissions really well, not just how to replace one but the ins and outs?

Yes, the guy I took the carb to runs his own ammco and is vice pres of the florida ammco chapter. He also has experience with 1st gen rx7's.

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That same guy suggested that the gas pedal wasn't going down all the way and we tightened that up. It helped a tiny bit, but not enough to shut me up, so we changed the timing and the mixture. It's running better(actually takes off like normal vehicles), but it's really sad for an rx7 even on the high end rpms. AND it still stalls when cold and i put it in gear.

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When I remove the rats nest, I'm also going to re-route the air duct to in front of the radiator so it gets cold air.



Again, it doesn't run "rough", it just stalls. No sputtering or anything, just shuts off.



******* a it's time consuming! I read up on how to check for vaccuum leaks and decided since I don't have emissions tests down here to just pull the damn thing out. If anything-better fuel economy right?

So i take it nobody's biting on the idea that it might be the cat?? The exhaust really doesn't seem like it's pushing as much as a regular cars exhaust.



I mean, it just kinda leaks out the back, there's little to no pressure on the air coming out of the muffler, whether the car is cold or hot.

clogged exhaust will show itself in a high rpm power loss. if the exhaust was that clogged you'd have a hard time starting it too.



the 750 rpm idle is in gear right?



mike

Yes. it pretty much sucks in all rpms. The higher it goes the better it gets, but better is a relative term.



I really don't have 750$ for a race exhaust :(

Try this before you go spending money.

crank the car and let it warm up a little if you have niehbors that will complain. then:

pull the exhaust from the manifold and tie it to the side really good, out of the way of the exhaust stream.

crank the car up(and let it warm up if you dont have neihbors) and see if it still has problems. if it doesnt, you have a flow problem. if it does, id pull the cat and pre cat for spite, since you live in fl.

autozone sells flex exhaust cheap.

And oh yea, before you put the exhaust back on, sail it around the block a couple of times and see how the motor responds.

I love to run mine with no muffler it feels really good!

make sure you have enough outlet though. rexs love to blow fire!

if you have the small manifold with the short outlet you might think about making a bolt on short pipe.

Can you say tumbling??

I forgot to mention:

It may not idle any better because you would have to tune it to the new format, but dont. The idle should just be DIFFERENT than it was and it should rev smoother without stalling.

So pay special attention to the way it idles and sounds before you take the exhaust off. Get used to the pulses of fire/exhaust so you will remember. the reason you try to memorize it is because I have never heard an exhaust so loud as an rx-7. And it makes it hard to distiguish what your hearing.