I got the last of the things I needed to do the nest elimination so I decided to go ahead and dive into it and get it back together today. I get so tired of reading about all of your cars and having mine sitting in the yard with only good memories.

Funny thing, I pulled the shutter valve of all together and "voi la" a penny fits perfect where the valve shaft went through.

It runs alot better now, But the damn thing still isnt right. Im sure it, running better, only has to do with the fact that theres alot less places for vacuum to leak now. I havent driven it yet but Im pretty sure the Aux Port Valves are working now.

Im pissed. Disgusted at least. I dont get it. This thing ran fine in the donor, it just wasn't getting the power it should. I should have tried to fix it before I put it in the car but I really thought that if it wasnt the carb (which I was going to rebuild anyway) then it was the fuel lines/filter/pump, and the pump and filter were the first things changed in the new car.

I've done nothing but troubleshoot ever since then. Its gone from running ok to running like total **** to running better. I like it better when it ran ok and Id really like to know MR PERFECT RUNNING!



So, the 12a 6PI exhaust manifold is like 3 1/2 in. shorter than the 12a. It wont reach the pipe. So now I have exhaust work to do.

And I found out the other day the jets are a little bigger in the 12a 6pi than in the 12a. As Ive said before, I know squat about carbs.



HOW MUCH CAN THIS AFFECT THE RUNNING OF THE ENGINE? And what would I be feeling/hearing if the jets were too small? (Im pretty sure with all the other 12a stuff Ive found on this engine that the carb is from a 12a too)

When I order jets, should I just go ahead and get bigger ones? and of course, why.

Im running a 4psi fuel pump and I really feel a bigger one is in order. 7? More?

Should I be adjusting the air bleed screw in the top of the carb? (the little brass jet looking thing in the top of the carb)

Does that 12a have actuators on the manifold to activate the extra 2 ports like a 13b?

Yea sure does

I cleaned them and made sure they moved good and pulled the valve sleeves out and cleaned them.

Do they work properly?On my 13b when I swapped it in I pulled the sleeves out.You could wire them open and see if it helps any.

I thought about doing that in the begining but someone in here told me it would have no low end and it has very little now.

How did pulling the sleeves do?

What did you do with the actuators?

I took the intake off and pulled the sleeves out of the block.You can tie the actuators open with some wire tho.I did that the first time before I got fed up with the looks and pulled the sleeves and dashpost for the actuators.Looks way cleaner on that motor now. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/happy.png

What did you do with the switches in the manifold?

Was there much difference in the performance?

not a power difference.More cosmetic.Plus with a aftermarket carb they don have provisions to operate the extra ports so you need to wire them open.I left the lever style switches on it but took the 10mm nuts and dashpots off the manifold.

Im thinking of a bigger carb all together but Im going to order new jets first, see if it helps.

I'll know more tomorrow when I get the exhaust fixed and can take it around the block.

I wish I had pulled the valves while I had the intake off.

Thats a nice set-up on yours....what is it?

Also check your compression.On rotaries compressions tells all.

That was my old dellorto 48 setup.Good if you port the motor.I have a Weber 45 DCOE on it now.I'll up date all my site pics on both cars once ALL the parts show up.The weber looks pimp.Easy install to. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Yea I found a 300lb gauge today with no hose for a dollar., I took it apart and it looked clean. Im going to take it to home depot with me and get some brass for it.

I can't remember off the top of my head but you should get 3 swoosh's of 80+ psi in each housing.

Ive been meaning to ask someone, If I port the intake do I need to port the Exhaust?

You mean on the housings?If so you port the exhaust and clean up the intake.

The motor seems to have plenty but i dont have very many things left to check. I was torn between doing Ignition or fuel next.

If you looking into power on these cars the best bang for buck power gains are with a free flow header,cat and exhaust system.Then add a good carb to it and you be smoking some pesky little hondas https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png

Yea exhaust is important. I kinda wonder if the stock exhaust is holding this one back. Ran it with just the ex manifold today. WOW!! Id race just to listen to that!

Im in florida Though, Ive probably only seen two cat converters in my life (except on new cars) and both of them were at a muffler shop.

Theres 3 on rx's.And if they are clogged they will glow red hot.

Three!

Idont think I have any, I was under there today but I didnt really pay attention but I think I would have noticed them

If theres even one Ill run a short pipe and the muffler until I can get some pipe bent. Is three inch really too big?

On a NA 2.5 is the biggest you should run.Theres 2 pre cats and one main cat.When you get rid of all 3 you get a serious gain.I remember that on my old 12a going from stock to Custom exhaust was a day and night improvement both gas mileage wise and power wise.

Did you have to adjust the fuel/air after you did it?

Whats the usual setting on the air screw on the nikki, If you know?

I left it they way it was before I swapped exhausts.It ran better after I scrapped the cats and smog pump.Even tho the cats were good I think they caused some problems with the idle on it.after i did the exhaust it felt like a new car. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png I was running a stock 12a manifold tho.I would have loved to put a header on but I wanted a carbed 13b so i never bothered.You can get 12a headers off ebay for cheap tho.Theres a racing beat one on there right now.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33631

My 12a was a 83 so the nikki on it only had the one screw to adjust it with so I would make it a bit rich if I was going to hit 8000 rpm with it just so I don't lean out.Stock setting on the nikki is good tho.With no cats you can sure smell it tho. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png

Let us know what your compression is like.Theres lots of us here who can help you more with the right knowledge.I'll check back tommorow night

The 12a headers dont have the hole for the back pressure valve. but if I scrap the actuators it wouldnt matter. That might be the way to go. I dont have alot of money and I just started on this engine so im trying to do as Much as I can with as little money as possible. Im not the buy it over the counter kinda guy anyway. Im more the fabricate it in the back yard. But I dont know enough about rotaries yet to just go jerking **** off and weld stuff on and throwing money away on parts that dont quite fit my application.

Im thinking about making my own header. atleast the plates and design. I have no way to bend pipe right now. but i just made a sweet table saw with a drill press mounted on it. Its huge! lots of room to work and then a blade just sticking up in the middle of the table. And I have access to torches and grinders, own a welder, etc...

just need more knowledge.

Msd 6 is next from Ebay. and hopfully some blaster 2's.

Just put new cap rotor plugs on it today. went for wires but all they had were 7s...... Nah. I wish i had a couple of brand new coils just to be sure they are both good.

What are headers going for on Ebay? It would probably be a hell of alot cheaper.

I like being able to say I made it.

Btw. Did you have to get the lawn mower belt for thr nest removal?

I found a belt from gatorback that fit perfect over all three pulleys.

Ive got to go get pipe tomorrow so Ill probably go by and get the rest of the compession gauge. I'd like to go ahead and check it. I need to find some NGKs too. Probably have to go to Prep Boys. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bling.gif

Well I got my pipe today. but after I got to looking at it I think Im just going to put a short pipe on it and throw the cherry bomb on it until I can get a 2 1/2in set up with a header. Right now Im just running 2in straight pipe to the back.

Has anyone ever done this before? I was wondering about the heat factors. I could send a pipe to the passenger side but I would rather just do a down pipe off the muff.

My old system was 2" straight to a glasspack at the rear.Man that was loud.Lasted 2 weeks of driving before a complaint to the cops made me have to quite it down.Did you test the compression yet?

I'm running a shorter stock belt but only have two pulleys.What your third pulley for?I pulled the AC out on mine(good gain and wieght saving).

My plan is to have only 1 pulley. Alternator. No aircon, no p/s, eletric w/pump, electric fan.

I guess it 2 not counting the main.

My setup looks like this.

And yea, I'd like to go with dual electric fans

The only place that I could get the brass I needed for the comp gauge was closed today so I have to do that tomorrow.

I worked on exhaust all day today. Im gonna have to go with 18in to the cherry bomb and then either a down or to the pass. side. If I can get the angle for a closure pipe Ill just hook up the old exhaust but Im not sure I can.

RAIN!!!! Man I hate when it Rains. I wish I had a Giant Shop.

I wanna work on my car!!!!!!!!

If it wasnt lightning Id just be getting wet. If I could get the muffler off I could goahead and put the short pipe on it and get it ready to go on the car.