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Well, I have it idling somewhat smooth, or as smooth as possible anyway. In other words
it no longer sounds like a piece of junk, haha. But, now that it's drivable, I am running into another problem. When you take off in 1st gear it feels pretty decent power wise, though not what I remember. It will also not rev over 3-4k or so without bucking and chugging along. 2nd and 3rd seem underpowered for sure. The revs will not go up past 4k. I didn't go past third much, since I just took it around the block once. I have no idea what would cause the underpowered feel, and chugging symptoms. I am still thinking the fuel pump is not up to the task, since the filter has almost no fuel in it all after running it. Like the gas barely touches the filter part at all. At idle it's sometimes half full. The good part is that I came out this morning, and not one single drop of oil on the driveway. So, I believe the cooler leaks are finally history.,,,,BB https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif |
Just drove all over hell and back, and finally found a fuel pressure gauge at Sears.
At idle with the choke on, it reads 3.5 psi. According to my Haynes book, it's just below the lowest reading it should show.,,,,BB Pump tomorrow I guess? |
Hows your timing?If it bucks you might have a timing issue.
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Would that only show up in 3k and up? Seems like it would be anytime? Of course
I'm no expert on how these cars react to tuning. It "sounds" okay. Also when sitting still it will act like it's going to die if you push it past 3500 or thereabouts.,,,,BB Could the cat be clogged up? It was fine when parked, but maybe the insides colllapsed over time. |
The no going past 3500 is intermittent though. Which is weird to me.,,,,BB
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Originally Posted by Buzzbomb' post='823630' date='Jun 11 2006, 07:09 PM
The no going past 3500 is intermittent though. Which is weird to me.,,,,BB
I think the intermittance of the problem rules out the cat. My half-bridge would not rev past 7000 at all until I went to a dual exhaust, and every car I've ever driven with a collapsed cat felt like it hit a brick wall at about 3000 rpm. However if you still want to rule it out for sure, unbolt your exhaust behind the manifold and tie it up with a coathanger, then drive around the block. Make sure your neighbors are cool with this first. If it runs better your exhaust is the problem. |
Originally Posted by Buzzbomb' post='823575' date='Jun 11 2006, 01:11 PM
Well, I have it idling somewhat smooth, or as smooth as possible anyway. In other words it no longer sounds like a piece of junk, haha. But, now that it's drivable, I am running into another problem. When you take off in 1st gear it feels pretty decent power wise, though not what I remember. It will also not rev over 3-4k or so without bucking and chugging along. 2nd and 3rd seem underpowered for sure. The revs will not go up past 4k. I didn't go past third much, since I just took it around the block once. I have no idea what would cause the underpowered feel, and chugging symptoms. I am still thinking the fuel pump is not up to the task, since the filter has almost no fuel in it all after running it. Like the gas barely touches the filter part at all. At idle it's sometimes half full. The good part is that I came out this morning, and not one single drop of oil on the driveway. So, I believe the cooler leaks are finally history.,,,,BB https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif I have similar problem with a rebuilt nikki car, but mine dosen't rev past 6,000rpm. I checked my timing and it is fine. Is yours carburated also? I get the feeling it's my secondaries getting stuck. |
I will, as soon as I get it idling again. This thing is nuts. Every third start
it seems to not idle and dies. The next time you crank it up, it'll run perfectly. It's really driving me crazy. |
Mine is driving me crazy as well with a similar problem, except mine I can get it running great, then it starts raining and all that moisture in the air gets to it, and I have to readjust the mixture just to keep the thing from sputtering so bad I can barely get to 40 miles per hour.
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thats not right! it might feel different in the summer vs the winter, but it should still run in both!
3.5psi is enough from the pump, it should keep that psi up to, ideally redline, a little drop is ok though timing should be set to stock, wires should be checked to make sure they go to the right plugs.... its easy to check the exhausts, or cats for clogging or coming apart, they do do that, and it could be intermittant.... |
Mitchell ondemand says 2.3 to 3.6 is normal fuel pressure. I'd check your carb
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But who's right? How can there be such a difference in specified fuel pressure??,,,BB
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Thats true i'd say mitchelle but how about calling your local mazda dealer or guru
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Just looked at it. If the following is right, then the plug wires are correctly installed.,,,,BB
Front coil is trailing, and goes to T Rear coil is leading, and goes to L Front bottom is L1 Rear bottom is L2 Front top is T1 Rear top is T2 |
Originally Posted by Buzzbomb' post='823723' date='Jun 12 2006, 11:47 AM
Just looked at it. If the following is right, then the plug wires are correctly installed.,,,,BB
Front coil is trailing, and goes to T Rear coil is leading, and goes to L Front bottom is L1 Rear bottom is L2 Front top is T1 Rear top is T2 The stock Nikki runs best on about 2.5 - 3.0 psi. If you're running an aftermarket fuel pump, try setting it a little lower. Also, try another fuel pressure gauge just to make sure. My Craftsman gauge read 2.0 psi when I had 5.0 psi, but my Mity-Vac's gauge read correctly. But if your problem is bucking, high fuel pressure won't be your problem. |
I have a mighty vac as well. Not sure if I have all the attachments or not still. Not an aftermarket pump, well, not an adjustable one anyway. The stock canister style are not adjustable, correct? It didn't appear to be when I changed it.,,,,BB
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Do you have mechanical secondaries or vacuum secondaries? Sounds like the secondaries on the carb are not opening all the way for you. I had the same problem that you are having with above 3000rpm operation with my vacuum secondaries on my stock Nikki.
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Check your fuel filter. For poor running when its raining out, replace cap/rotor and check your spark plug wires for cracks.
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Has a new fuel filter, under the car in back, and between the firewall and carb. I gave it up for now. I am waiting for a healthy check to come in the mail, and it's going into a shop. I only know that no american car I've had has been this much trouble:(,,,,BB
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Well, it went to the shop finally. Guess what? They claim the plug wires were not routed right? They "corrected" it for me. They also informed me that the compression was awesome. 70's and 80's. They also said the accel pump on the carb was not pumping fuel well, and the mixture screw was bent. This kept it from seating correctly. So, it got towed over to the guy who "used" to do their Nikki's, to be cracked open and repaired. Fuel pressure they say is on the low end at 3.5(I was right, according to Haynes) SO, I may be buying a Holley and a regulator, which is cheaper than the stock style pump at the auto parts store. I am glad this nightmare is coming to an end soon.(I hope!),,,,BB
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Cool.I hope it runs strong again real soon.
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Me too. The carb dude is replacing the shutter valve which was shot, the accel pump which is no good(Thanks rx7goods from ebay) mixture screw, labor and all for $525. Not real bad considering the carb labor, price of the accel pump, shutter valve and labor, and assorted parts and materials(big vacuum hose). It hurts, but only until I hit the pedal hard the first time, hehe.
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Well, more problems, and this guy is awesome. One of the ignitors was cracked, the pulley was put on wrong, he put in 3 cans of freon, and it has been found that the fuel pump is bad, what I suspected all along. It supplies the carb enough for one good run, and then there's not enough fuel unless you let it catch up. 1.5 pounds of pressure while idling, measured inline. So Holley here I come!! Yes and a regulator. With all of these pre existing problems, I can only imagine this car hauls ass now. It was always pretty good, but it was being driven daily with mis routed plug wires, a misaligned pulley, and a cracked ignitor. These were there when we got the car at 3-4 years old.,,,,BB
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Well, he didn't say over the phone that he needed to crack the carb open again after the fuel pump, but he told me that after I got there. He said he would pick the car up after
I got done, so that will save me $52 for the dolly again. I pulled it off the dolly, and parked it in the driveway. After I got back from returning the dolly I cranked it up to pull it inside the fence. It scared the crap out of me, hehe. In a good way of course. Runs WAY better, and no more bucking. Fuel pump is coming from Summit and should be here Friday or Saturday. 2nd day air. That and the exhaust, and then I get to PRAY it passes emissions. Only one more year on that I believe so no big deal.,,,,BB |
vaccum advancement not working
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Which would have solved which problem? It runs as near to perfect as possible, and he didn't mention anything about the vac advance not working. Mostly all carb problems,
and a cracked ignitor.,,,,BB |
wow thats a chunk of change thank god for states like F.l. no emissions. At least not central Fl. I have allways been a holley guy, but recently I went from a half bridge 12a to a stocker with a tweeked out nikki. This guy hooked me up but would not say what he did. No emissions crap of course, mechanical secondaries, and I know he did some work to the intake manifold, lowered the pletnum alittle and made a point in the center just like u gotta do to the rb intakes when your motor is ported. It sounds mean at idle. has a kick as suckig sound, or mini tornado If u will. I never had so mutch fun with a stock set up before,definately new found respect.
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