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can't talk much (at work) but here is a shot of the input signal.
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OK, Heres the deal. It is a direct fire system for the trailing plugs. It does not use the rotor or cap to send spark to the plugs - just 3 coils. One dual post for leading, and 1 coil for each trailing plug.
Testing will continue. Any thoughts? |
i'm sorta confused but that graph looks cool https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png
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Originally Posted by vosko' date='Oct 10 2002, 06:21 PM
i'm sorta confused but that graph looks cool https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png
Ch1 (White trace) is the leading plug signal (both leading 1 & 2 can be fired at the same time in a wasted spark set-up like a stock 2nd or 3rd gen.) It fires every 90*. Ch 2 (Green trace) is Trailing #2 and is only fired every 180* Ch3 (Yellow trace) is Trailing #1 and is fired every 180*, but needs to be skewed 90* from T2. Does that help? Your a tech geek, you should know what it all means https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png (if not, it is a plot of voltage-to-time) |
i know its a plot of voltage just didn't how it works and what was being represented. that sounds cool though. how did you manage that ?
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Originally Posted by vosko' date='Oct 10 2002, 06:47 PM
i know its a plot of voltage just didn't how it works and what was being represented. that sounds cool though. how did you manage that ?
how I made the ignition system? I'll let you know when I have it all tested, but It is not all that hard to do... |
pops is the electrical whiz not me. he can take a pineapple and a box of junk and make a bomb......... LOL
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Not to add anything to this thread, but I built a direct fire (Leading and) Trailing ignition (for a 20B) and have a rotary powered MG Midget too! There must be something in our jeans, er genes. No wait, it's our user names that will explain everything. His ignition is for his RX powered Midget, and mine is for Jeff's 20B as soon as he/I get(s) it.
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Oct 12 2002, 03:57 AM
Not to add anything to this thread, but I built a direct fire (Leading and) Trailing ignition (for a 20B) and have a rotary powered MG Midget too! There must be something in our jeans, er genes. No wait, it's our user names that will explain everything. His ignition is for his RX powered Midget, and mine is for Jeff's 20B as soon as he/I get(s) it.
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i dont get it, either vos....
mike |
I get it...I think...Direct for for the trailing...So the leading fires both at the same time as always with direct fire, but the trailing has direct fire (from coils to plugs) as well. So you have one coil (dual post) or two coils for leading, and two coils (one for each plug) for the trailing, and youre just showing that you can use the direct fire idea to fire the trailing plugs at the right times without interfering with anything...Right?
~T.J. |
RMD, pretty much.
RX-Midget, I drove my Midget for the first time yesterday. That's the first time it's been driven since 1990! I got it in '96 and sort of put it on the back burner untill now. |
Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Oct 15 2002, 08:31 AM
RMD, pretty much.
RX-Midget, I drove my Midget for the first time yesterday. That's the first time it's been driven since 1990! I got it in '96 and sort of put it on the back burner untill now. how hard is it to rotary a midget? the car is light enough..... mike |
Originally Posted by RotorMotorDriver' date='Oct 14 2002, 02:10 PM
I get it...I think...Direct for for the trailing...So the leading fires both at the same time as always with direct fire, but the trailing has direct fire (from coils to plugs) as well. So you have one coil (dual post) or two coils for leading, and two coils (one for each plug) for the trailing, and youre just showing that you can use the direct fire idea to fire the trailing plugs at the right times without interfering with anything...Right?
~T.J. The ultimate goal is to go to a coil-on-plug set up like some new cars have were each coil mounts onto the plug - no more plug wires! Also for those who like MSD (I'm open minded - not quite sure if CD is the way to go....but it's not bad), this should be able to trigger their DIS-6 which will contain the complete ignition in one box. 3 inputs, 3 outputs. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif |
Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Oct 15 2002, 12:31 PM
RMD, pretty much.
RX-Midget, I drove my Midget for the first time yesterday. That's the first time it's been driven since 1990! I got it in '96 and sort of put it on the back burner untill now. :bigok: How did it run? Loads of fun I hope! |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Oct 15 2002, 01:11 PM
[quote name='Jeff20B' date='Oct 15 2002, 08:31 AM']RMD, pretty much.
RX-Midget, I drove my Midget for the first time yesterday. That's the first time it's been driven since 1990! I got it in '96 and sort of put it on the back burner untill now. how hard is it to rotary a midget? the car is light enough..... mike[/quote] It isn't hard. I've made a template and jig to make more motor mounts (I've made 3 so far for people). A few tips and tricks here and there is about all. It is a little bit more than a bolt in mod, but not too bad. I can't remember what Jeff is running, but I recomend a stronger rear than the MG unit (mine is a narrowed GSL-SE rear). |
Originally Posted by RX-Midget' date='Oct 16 2002, 06:49 AM
[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Oct 15 2002, 01:11 PM'][quote name='Jeff20B' date='Oct 15 2002, 08:31 AM']RMD, pretty much.
RX-Midget, I drove my Midget for the first time yesterday. That's the first time it's been driven since 1990! I got it in '96 and sort of put it on the back burner untill now. how hard is it to rotary a midget? the car is light enough..... mike[/quote] It isn't hard. I've made a template and jig to make more motor mounts (I've made 3 so far for people). A few tips and tricks here and there is about all. It is a little bit more than a bolt in mod, but not too bad. I can't remember what Jeff is running, but I recomend a stronger rear than the MG unit (mine is a narrowed GSL-SE rear).[/quote] hmm cool, its tempting to do something like that. i need to go and liberate the bugeye..... mike |
It came with a streetported '73 RX-2 12A in it. All I did was install a stockport '74 13B and tranny from my REPU, along with all the other mods to make it fit. Pics and info can be found here: http://www.geocities.com/cd23c/cars.html#mg. I don't have any pics of the real engine in it, just the mockup. I ought to take a few pics today. Oh, and my first drive was hoodless! The usual stuff that can go bad from sitting for so long will need work. It needs a brake job, clutch master rebuild, front shocks (one is frozen and the other has no damping effect so only the left side lifts up when I stomp on it), brake light switch, etc. Aside from the loudish exhaust and the even louder tranny, my 13B had a lot more power in this car. RX-Midget, you're right about how hard the pedal is if using the stock clutch master. The brakes are bad and I had to press it as hard as I could and then it would start to slow down. I ended up rolling through several stop signs (oops!).
I shifted fast into 2nd and lifted the clutch pedal a little quick and it 'chirped' for 2.5 seconds without even trying, and then did a little burnout over a painted line near a fellow rotorhead's house. It spun for a bit longer than I thought it would and left paint marks on my tires hehe. I know I should take it easy on the diff, but if it breaks, then I'll have an excuse to get something that will take the power. I once had an '84 GSL disc brake rearend for it, but sold it to buy other stuff. Oh well, a GSL-SE is a better choice anyway. I'll get one some day. Anyway, it needs a lot more work before it's road worthy. The radiator fan is grossly undersized, but the previous owner drove it like that all the time. I have installed the thermostatic switch from my REPU and it kicks the fan on well before the middle mark on the stock temp guage. I'm thinking about getting a better fan and maybe a three row core rad. I also have a some aftermarket guages I could add. Heh, even my speedo still works after installing a custom cable. I put like 2 miles on it. As for the difficulty of installing a rotary in a spridget platform? It's a good idea to spend lots of time on this project. j9fd3s, your 20B FC engine bay looks like you spent lots of time on it. Use those skills on your Bugeye and it'll come out looking (and functioning) great! About the pics, I'll see if I can get a couple before the sun starts to shine on the engine bay. That way the contrast won't be too high to see the darker areas. And maybe a few with the sun shinging... Oops, forgot to mention that I've got plans to rebuild the '73 12A with an '85 rotating assembly. I'll see about using a '74+ end housing and delete a couple tension bolts. The rotor housings haven't been crushed much and are reusable. The part that actually failed was the thrust bearing area due to oil starvation from an undersized oil pump (12mm) and a shim in the oil pressure reg at 80-90PSI. The pump was really worn out. I've got a 17mm pump and a decent used thrust assembly waiting to go in, along with an old Nikki that I'll be testing as it's not had gas in it since 1990 hehe! I'll need to get another dizzy and a couple ignitors since all my parts went into my 20B dizzy. I was also thinking about bridgeporting the secondaries, but I'm still debating over that one. |
the 73 motor with 85 rotating assy works fine, actually they used to drill out 81-85 rotor housings and use the 73 steels too. of course it would be better to have the whole 81+ 12a, i think its lighter
mike |
Jeff, I posted in the "Other Rotory" section some info on getting your clutch master to work better so you don't end up with one very large left leg from pushing the stock one https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png
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Originally Posted by RX-Midget' date='Oct 16 2002, 06:43 AM
[quote name='RotorMotorDriver' date='Oct 14 2002, 02:10 PM']I get it...I think...Direct for for the trailing...So the leading fires both at the same time as always with direct fire, but the trailing has direct fire (from coils to plugs) as well. So you have one coil (dual post) or two coils for leading, and two coils (one for each plug) for the trailing, and youre just showing that you can use the direct fire idea to fire the trailing plugs at the right times without interfering with anything...Right?
~T.J. The ultimate goal is to go to a coil-on-plug set up like some new cars have were each coil mounts onto the plug - no more plug wires! Also for those who like MSD (I'm open minded - not quite sure if CD is the way to go....but it's not bad), this should be able to trigger their DIS-6 which will contain the complete ignition in one box. 3 inputs, 3 outputs. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif[/quote] Ok, so will you eliminate the distibutor all together? How do you plan on doing that? Block it off? Will it work if you ust pull it out and cap off the opening? Whats CD? Capacitive (sp?) Discharge? And what else would you use to fire the coils? I mean, what would tell them what to fire? Ignitors? Control box of sorts (like MSD)? Im still confused as to what you intend to use to trigger the coils... I like the idea though, cause anything to help clean my engine bay is a plus https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png. Good job man https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png ~T.J. |
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