what would the be the best way for me to do this. i've seen some pics of how people have done this before, their lines look awful small compared to the stock oil return line. i'm afraid it may clog easily, whats your recommendation?



Loi Cao

maybe tap something in there so you can put a flange on and use the stock line? i dunno ive never done the swap



mike

o, i was under the impression you had. my bad



i am quite stumped about what to do. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png



can anyone else help me out?

I just drilled my SE front cover and tapped it for a 1/2 NPT fitting.Then went from there to make it work.Theres a dimple on the SE cover just below the OMP.

did the same here, 1/2npt.

I'm about to do the same thing with my front cover. Might have to make a trip to Enzed and see what fittings they have. The original return line is steel piping, is it any different to use braided hose instead?

Just make sure you get a big ID hose. I was told to use a 5/8" on mine and it's working out so far.

You can also remove the oil level sensor in the pan and make a block-off plate with a fitting for your oil return.

could one of you guys give me a pic of your setup so i can have something to go off of? that'd be peachy keen!!

I think dumping the oil back in to the engine above the oil level would be ideal. That way it woulden't have to "push" oil out of the way to drain into the pan.

You don't need a pic. Look under your OMP, there is a round indent that is what we are talking about. Drill and tap for 1/2 npt fitting.

I think I've buggered up and wasted some dosh with my return line. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png

I got a steel braided line made up to the same size as the original one, which is all good, but I forgot that I've got the new exhaust manifold to shift the turbo away from the steering box, so it's prolly gonna be too short. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png

I'll have to pull off the turbo tomorrow and check it out. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

Yeah theres the tapping spot now get to it boy. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

this is my braided line -not hooked up.

I got a ? now.



I was told that tapping it for a 10an fitting is what i wanted. Is it? I really know nothing about tapping, i'm doing this swap with a friend, hm..

ok, so i guess a braided line is the best way to then.



i'll get back to you guys when its done

It's not a problem if the oil filler neck nipple is vented. If you plug it, bad things start to happen, I found out the hard way https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif

WTF?What happens when you plug that nipple.I run my NA all day with it capped off. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png

I'm just sying it's ideal to have the oil dump back in above the oil level in the engine. The less restriction on the turbo drain the better.



If you cap all vents to the oil pan you may end up leaking oil by the turbine seal. The oil drain should have no presure on it, by blocking off vents you can trap "crank case" pressure. It's probably not a big deal on your NA but you might start to develop prematue oil leaks.

In an N/A application, it doesn't matter because all the pressures are constant between in the inside and outside of the engine.



When you add boost, there is significantly more pressure in the crankcase that is not helping anything. It has to go somewhere. If you cap it, you will get oil-blow-by into your intake system.



That's not a good thing. It makes the intercooler full of oil, the throttlebody full of oil, the intake manifold full of oil, etc.



Another added BAD-Benefit from Blow-by is that you will effectively lower the octane rating of your fuel, making you that much more likely for detonation. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683454.gif



So, in a Boosted application, you do want the Oil Filler Necks to be vented into the atmosphere to keep the crankcase pressures down. Unfortunately, that may mean that you also get oil blown out of them in high boost situations.



The Solution?



Put a small K&N on the neck of the filter will usually work for 12 PSI or so.

More boost, and you should run a VENTED Catch can from the filler neck.

Jaz has a real nice one that I need to run a line to.

ok guys, ran into a problem. the main pulley nut is a biotch... should i just try and wedge something into the flywheel to stop it from turning? or will that hurt something?

Thanks DF.

If the engine is out of the car, use the front crossmember with some clutch bolts and a tranny mount bolt. Put the crossmember aross the flywheel and secure it with a clutch bolt or two, and then use the tranny mount bolt in the engine housing where the tranny would bolt up. I did that to remove the flywheel nut with an impact wrench and it held just fine, so it should be good for you to loosen the front pully nut.



Hopefully youve read and or know about the bearing problems that can be associated with taking off the main pully? Theres an article at Mazda Trix about it if youre not sure about what Im talking about.



~T.J.

this is for my gsl-se front cover, i'm not reusing this block cause its in pretty bad condition so i'll be alright as far as that goes. a buddy of mine who's knowledgeable about TII's is gonna help me swap the front cover over after i get it tapped and everything so maybe about a week or two and this thing might actually be running, we'll see though...

Directfreak, thanks for the link. Right now venting to the atmosphere means I get an oil spray from it onto the engine, hard to keep clean. Catch can sounds like a good idea. I wish this thread was around when i plugged my vents. The exhaust started smoking like a chimney and I thought for sure my turbo went kaput. It is not a big deal in n/a applications but I am sure it will have long term effects even though they are not immediately apparent.

Unfortunately, you probably took some years off of the Turbo oil seals. Oh well. It's always a learning process. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blush.png



Welcome to the NP forum. How many lbs of boost are you running? Did you build your Turbo FB, or were you fortunate enough (smart enough) to buy it off someone?



I am interested to know about your Torsen rear.



Oh, and as a new member, you are required to post pics of your

car and set-up. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blush.png



Right guys?! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/tongue.png

Yup no get posting.https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png Directfreak will any container work for a catch can as long as the line gets to it???

I think Steve (AJC-13B) used a 20oz sprite bottle at one time for his catch can https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png so yeah, any container will work. Just make sure it's vented. I don't have a catch can on mine, I get a couple drops out of the line running to the ground per few hrs of run time. The overflow stuff that comes out of mine almost smells like straight gas. for a while there when tuning my oil level actually went up! All that extra gas started to seep it's way into my oil system. Now that I have it tuned pretty well (still have some minor issues to work out) the oil level stays the same and only has a slight fuel smell to it https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Setzep already answered, but pretty much any will work as long as is it's not sealed.

ah, I always wondered what the catch cans were for.



My 12a used to spray oil onto the inside of my bonnet all the time???



I'll have to invest in (make) one for the 13BT.

So it has to be vent too then.I think a 1 liter pop bottle will work for a while. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

If you don't want a can cluttering up your engine bay you can always just run a hose down to the bottom of you engine and let the blowby drain onto the ground.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif



Don't do that!!



How you wouldn't like to be driving on oil slicked roads, would you?

Or you family? Or your girlfriend? Etc.



Use a tin can if you have to, but don't drain on the street.

like I said before, it's only a few drips per few hrs of run time. I'm sure 90% of the cars on the road today drip more oil in one day than my car does in a week,



But I suppose if you must have a squeaky clean garage floor you should put a catch can in there.

That and your car should look as good as the money you invested in it.Thats why mine is getting paint this fall. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png