I was driving my repu the other day and everything was running good except alittle rich but now it won't start and I have no spark at the plugs.Everything is getting power but no spark.I have new wires, plugs, cap and rotor and still nothing.Ideas?I thought its best to post here seeing as it is using first gen ignition parts.

No spark at any of the plugs? How about the coils? Did you try swapping ignitors? Check your grounds?

yah, make sure you're getting power to the coils and ignitors, if yes then the ignitors are prolly bad. odd for both to die at once though....

Update.......

I have power to the cap and ignitors.Could the pickups in the distributor just go bad?Its the only thing I can come up with.

be weird but its possible

Yeah,It's the only thing tho that doesn't check out tho.Everything else is good when I tested it.I thought for sure it was the ignitors and tried others but they weren't bad on the resistence tests.I'll price out the pickups today and see what the will ding me.I will try some other things first tho.

I would still place odds on this ignition module, try the GMC conversion they are about 25$ech vs the 140$ech for the mitsu ones. Or a connection with them. Are you losing spark all the time and on all coils?

None of the tests work reliably. I've had good ignitors fail tests and bad ignitors pass. The only good test of an ignitor is to run it. Go to Pull-A-Part and nab a handful, or swap your leading ignitor with a known good one from a buddy's RX-7.

Tried different ignitors and still no good.I'll play with it some more.I was told its cheaper to buy a used distributor than to buy new pick-ups so I need to narrow it down some more.On the plus side I wired it for DLDFIS.But still nothing.Used up the extra ignition parts I had kicking around tho. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

What module?You mean ignitors?I have no spark at all.I drove it one day and nothing the next.Thats what has me baffled.

If you have power to everything and your grounds are good, I'd certainly swap out distributors and see if it runs. If it does I'd blame the mag pickups.

Yeah.I think I'll hit up a wrecking yard and get one.Worst comes to worst I'll have a spare.I've tried everything else.

Finally got my new dizzy after purolator screwed up on shipping.$400 later I have it in there and still nothing.This truck is really pissing me off.Why would I have over 11VDC to all the ignitor parts but no spark?I thought it was the dizzy but that put me right back at square one again?What else is needed to make spark on these motors?

Maybe its your timing chain? J/K



Have you confirmed that you have power to the + on the coils? Rotor is in good condition? You didn't replace your dizzy due to a burnt fusible link, did you? Hopefully its just something simple that you have overlooked somewhere along the line...



Like Mark Twain said "It ain't what you don't know that gets you, it's what you do know that just ain't so"...



Good luck man.

Motor is in awesome shape.But I did replace every little thing in the ignition system.I did find something odd tho.Why would all 3 of my coils only getting 9.3 volts?Any ideas on the cause of voltage loss?I think this is my problem now.Especially with DLDFIS.I redid the grounds and new connectors everywhere and still 9.3 volts while the battery has 12.7.

Hey J9FD3S would a faulty ignition switch cause a 3 volt power loss?My stepdad seems to think that the ignition switch would be the cause.That or a bad ground but my grounds are as well.Ideas?

Man this truck is a headache. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

You got a truck. Don't the trucks use point system ignition and not electronic ignition?

Ah, I see it's in a rotary powered B series truck, not a genuine REPU. That's a different story. I've done DLDIFIS in both. In the B series, the battery is in the engine bay. It's very easy and highly recommended to add a relay.



Yes, the ignition switch could very well be the cause of your low voltage problem. In the B2000 I worked on, the fuel pump and electric fan were also wired directly on the same circuit. Dumb... I hooked up two relays; one for ignition, one for the fan, and left the fuel pump on the ignition circuit. It was a facet so I figured it would be ok like that. Anyway, the bucksnort problems went away and it no longer loaded up at idle.



Add at least one relay specifically for the ignition and get back to us.

Pump is on a fused circuit not used because this truck had no AC and the Iginition is wired off the Key.But why would it just lose the voltage all of a sudden?One day good next day nothing. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

Oh btw Jeff,



Did you get the PM I sent a while you awhile back?Wanted to see your progress on the GLC.And yes its techically a REPU now seeing as it is a Rotary Engine Pick UP... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

Having two genuine REPUs as I do, I tend to call the previously piston powered trucks like yours and Dan's, rotary B series trucks or rotary B2000s etc, but never REPU. It certainly doesn't take any more effort to roll off the tongue than ARR E PEE YOU. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/tongue.png



Besides, my friend had both an '86 rotary B2000 and a '77 REPU. It didn't make much sense to call them both REPU. Rotary trucks they indeed were, but only one could bear the covetted title REPU.



It's REPU envy, but that's ok. I'm flattered that you would call a previously piston powered truck an REPU. In a way, it pays homage to the orginal. It's just a bit confusing when I come across threads in a forum like this one though.



I looked through my PMs but didn't see one from you within the last year or more. I have to swap flywheels soon. It's got a used RB light steel flywheel and a good used 225mm disc and P-plate. The flywheel had a 215mm disc on it so I'm going to install a new flywheel so the 225mm disc can wear evenly. The used flywheel will go into my MG with a 215mm disc. I also have a brand new 225 HD disc and plate from RB, but I think they'll go into my Cosmo with a GSL-SE flywheel (big car, 27 lbs flywheel, HD disc - sounds like a good match to me).

Holy crap! I wouldn't have gone out and bought a new one. Pull-A-Part distributors are $10 if they don't realize there's ignitors on them. I have two spares I keep around.There's not much else, no ECU or anything funky. If you're not getting spark and you only have 9.3v at the coils you have a power distribution problem.Ignition switches have multiple contacts, so one circuit may lose power while the rest still work, and yes, bad ignition switches are 'good' one day and 'gone' the next.

I'll post a update tommorow after I track down three more coils seeing as I fried mine by a simple mistake.

UPDATE.. .Next time you lose spark make sure you don't have any grounds other than your ignitors grounded to your coils. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

Yep. An FYI for everyone else: Just because the coils have a negative terminal, it doesn't mean they're supposed to be connected to chassis or negative ground. They should only ever be connected to the C terminal of one ignitior each (one ignitor per coil). This is also where the (usually green) signal wire of a tach is to be connected. You'll save yourself a lot of headaches if you remember this small step.