I'm looking at a 84 GSL-SE with 71k miles for $2300. I'm usually more into 2nd gens and don't really know what to check. I know someone with a compression tester but will a regular compression tester work for a rotary? If not how much does a compression test cost at a Mazda place? Any way I can tell if the cats are in good/bad shape? Any trouble spots I should look for?



From what I understand the previous owner left it sitting somewhere for quite a while and the paint faded a bit, now the guy that owns it now has had it for 2 years so any problems from the left sitting should be fixed (?). If everything appears to be in good shape except for the paint, is $2300 a good price or should I try to get it for less?

Also, since we don't have emissions tests around here, I could replace the cats with straight pipes, how would this affect gas mileage?

Thanks for the help.

i talked tha guy i bought my 85 from down to 1000 from about tha price your talkin bout ....but i had a mechanical problem insted of paint but it not bad of a problem (throughout bearing)

Called about another GSL-SE, everythings in good shape except for the engine https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png

He put a new clutch, new brakes, and a new rear end in it, but one of the apex seals is bad. He wants $500...Anyone know how much a 13b with bad apex seals costs to rebuild? I can't do it myself so include a estimate on labor.

Well my rebuild for the same problem would have been about $1500 if it didn't do much damage.



Also... when checking the car check inside the rear fenderwells for rust.

around here, "good" GSL-SE engines can be had for less than $500.



and by "good" i mean, the seller will usually guarantee that it runs, but there is no guarantee that it's going to last any length of time.

when checking the car check inside the rear fenderwells for rust...



What he said.

A good rule of thumb is that everything on a first gen is cheap, except for the engine. Check the engine compression, that is what you are paying for.

(For those of you in the salty type areas also check for rust, as Armyofone mentioned.)

About that compression test..are we talking $30-$70 or $100+ for a compression test from the local Mazda place?

i just do it the cheap way; take out the plugs, and turn the motor over by hand. if you hear three strong PFF!s, it's a good sign. only one strong PFF! and you have a busted apex seal. two, and you have a bunk side seal.

yeah

check FAQ's for the ghetto compression test.

Me, being someone that has never heard a 1st gen engine being cranked at all (never even touched one! What a travesty...), could I definately tell by the "ghetto compression test" or do you have to have a trained ear to tell it? And does all the compression test say if you get it from the Mazda place is good or bad? I figured they would get exact numbers that could tell me if the engine was "perfect", "good", "getting ready to go", or "gone" of sorts...Whereas the "ghetto compression test" just tells me if it works now or is blown.

second gen and GSLSE engine are basically the same. so if u know how a good running second gen sounds youre all set. also, when i bought my last car the previous owner perfomed a comp test at a dealer, and i beleive it cost him 90 bucks.



with a mazda comp test done youll get numbers, but just cause u got great numbers doesnt mean the engine will last 5 years.

If the owner allows you to take out the storage bins behind the seats(few phillips screws)do so and check for classic storage bin rust.

Alrighty...Went and checked it out, It needs paint on the hood and roof BAD, the sides are nice, no rust or dents on the body though. The shifter boot isn't connected to the base, just hanging around the shifter. Parts of the interior were a bit faded, but nothing too bad, the dash didn't have and cracks or anything, the guy didn't clean it up at ALL, hasn't been washed, and some Armor All would have done miracles for the interior. The metal parts on the wiper blades were rusty, anyone know where I can get replacements, or if I can sand it down and repaint it?

The handle or something on the hatch was missing and it made the hatch not release right or something, anyone know what that piece is and where I can get it? He said he ordered it from the Mazda place twice but it gets backordered. The engine and clutch were in great condition, but it worried me that the oil was quite low. It had the original GSL-SE wheels but they were really dirty, do they clean up well or will they always be grimey..

The doors needed some WD-40, but everything wrong with the car that I saw was either cosmetic or easily repaired.

It had new tires too.. Got him down to $2000, seem good?

Did you drive it?



If the steering was fairly tight, the tranny not noisy and it did not overheat I say go for it. But that is just me. Just check the compression first.

Didn't get to drive it much, steering was good except for weak power steering feeling (never driven a 1st gen so don't know how it should be), clutch was great and smooth, I only got to drive it for about 10 minutes because of lunch break, I'm going back tomorrow to hopefully drive it long enough to see about the heat issues. Is pulling the plugs and doing the "Ghetto comression test" good enough or should I take it to the Mazda place and test the compression..?

if you look at the hatch on the pic, I think its just that plastic piece. not sure if it should keep the hatch from opening right though. I cant check with mine since the battery is out and its all electronic (annoying considering my spare parts are in my hatch and my key won't open that.)



you might try e-bay, Victoria British, but I wouldn't recomend Mazda dealers (seem over priced to me)



http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...644_1_full.jpg

regarding the shifter boot: sounds like an excellent excust to make your own leather custom jobbie. i did on my '83 GSL and it was rad.



regarding the interior: unless you get a really good find, the interior plastics will be faded. especially the hatch area (nice little greenhouse in there). my '84 SE is good and faded, but i'm planning on using some stuff called "SEM Color Coat" (google it) to restore the color, and then protect it with their clear protectant coat.



when i check out an old 7, i prefer it to be a bit dirty. imo shows the owner wasn't trying to cover anything up.



metal parts on wiper blades: either find junkyard parts that aren't rusty, or scrape the rust off and repaint. this goes for pretty much all the window trim. 90% of the 1st gens i see have chipping trim and gutters.



hatch handle: there isn't really a handle on the hatch. not sure what you're referring to. you grab the hatch itself from a little dugout in the middle.



the original SE wheels are pretty hot. there was a thread on the rx7club.com about polishing aluminum.



and yeah as long as the paint isn't TOO bad, engine is smoove, no hesitation, and the tranny is quiet, $2000 seems reasonable (tho it doesn't beat my $800 gsl-se!)... sounds like a lot of the stuff are things that a little elbow grease would take care of.



if you decide to pick it up, good luck! 1st gens are great cars, especially the GSL-SE!

Well, I got it today, nothing unexpected yet, like I said needs some plastic trim and some paint. I was looking at your new one cpt_gloval and mine has the same interior color and exterior.

Now I see the shift knob and center console on yours is the same color as mine, thats faded right? I've never seen a pristine red leather interior so I don't really know. The most immediate problem I need to get fixed is a handle for the hatch, and it doesn't seem to be latching, I can just walk up to it and lift the glass without turning a key, I don't know about these at all, is there some switch that I can use to lock it or do I need some new parts?

Here is a pic of it, just after washing, no waxing or anything yet.

$1990 with 71k miles.

And a pic of the fading/missing paint on top..with me in the picture..taken after moutain biking 9 miles..talk about great picture time. You can see in this pic where the hatch striker plate is missing.

looks good, more pics!!

In fact, post your pics in the pinned pics thread.

Heh..I'll wait until I clean it up and take some better shots..these were just to get a feel of what it looks like on film..I have some better angles on a roll of film now, but sadly I have no digital camera so I have to finish off the roll, and then have them developed... And last pic