Ok,



First, to RacerX, sorry for mucking up your thead on clutch problems with

timing questions.



Now for the info.



This is for setting the TOTAL advance @4000+RPM (NOT idle)



Tools used: 1/4" drive ratchet with 12" extension and a 10MM socket.

(my weapon of choice for loosening and tightening the distributer bolt)



#2 phillips screwdriver with a 14" long shaft

(weapon of choice for loosening and tightening trailing advance screws)

(you can't bash your knuckles if your knuckles aren't near anything)



Inductive timing light with advance

(it's too much work for me to measure out all the degrees onto a

piece of tape then align the zero's then apply the tape to the pulley

then file marks representing the degrees hoping I don't screw up the

pulley)



My favorite throttle stick

(a friend will work just as well)



A word of caution: (To keep people from trying to sue me for them not being able to

follow directions!)

THE WANKLE MOTOR ACTS LIKE A 2 STROKE MOTOR AS FAR AS IGNITION!

Meaning that evry time the 0 mark on the pulley comes up to the pointer, the

ignition fires.

So if your timing light DOESN'T have a 2 stroke option, then the setting values are

cut in half.



We will assume that you are using a light without the 2 stroke option.

For more info on how a distributer works, YAW POWER has an excellent article here:



http://personal.riverusers.com/~yawpower/pultime.html



Read it now!



I hope that site never goes away https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



Now that all that B.S. is out of the way, we can start and warm up our engines.



Read the above article for recommended total advance.



Install timing light per Mfgr's instructions.

(#1 leading plug)

Set advance dial to 1/2 desired advance.

Have trusted assistant hold rpm @ 4000.

Check the timing against your 0 mark on pulley, it shouldn't be very far off.

Loosen distributer and turn to align 0 mark and pointer.

Tighten distributer.



You've just set the leading timing! Congratulations!



Give trusted helpers foot a rest while you move timing light to #1 trailing plug wire

per Mfgr's instructions.



Re-adjust advance dial to 1/2 your trailing spec.

Have trusted assistant hold rpm @ 4000.

Check the timing against your 0 (yes 0!) mark.

Loosen the two set screws for the trailing advance vacuum pod.

pull out on the vacuum pod to advance.

Tighten screws.

Re-check timing against 0 (yes 0!) mark.

Re-adjust as necessary to get it aligned.

Be patient.

Try again.



There you go, you've just set your trailing advance!



You will hear a difference when you set the trailing advance.



Tell trusted assistant to "beat it" and remove timing light.

Go for a ride!



Enjoy.



After I set my timing I rechecked my Idle settings.

I found that I am 2` advanced leading and 6`retarded trailing.

Your results may vary based on the operation of the mechanical

and vacuum advance systems in your distributer.

Don't sweat it about my thread I don't mind.Good info you posted :bigok: Moderators: Could you guys move this to the FAQ section and Pin it?



Thanks

Luis

2 things. you might want to disconnect the vacuum advances to set the timing @4k, and i notice my gsl-se is a lot more responsive with paul yaw's 8 degree split, i didnt change the factory timing except to reduce the split.



mike

Yeah,I heard that if the vaccum is hooked up it makes it different by a few degrees.I think OEM is good but if your motor is modified you better play with the timing a bit.

I had noticed a difference in sound when I timed it, then when I drove it afterwards

I noticed my clutch slipping where it wasn't before. so I guess I have more power https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Now theres a bonus. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Now theres a bonus. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png [/quote]

Until I realized that after 5 minutes of playing with my car I now need

to spend $250-300 on a clutch. Plus the time to install it

Now theres a bonus. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png [/quote]

Until I realized that after 5 minutes of playing with my car I now need

to spend $250-300 on a clutch. Plus the time to install it [/quote]

Take it from me.I have first hand experience in this part.The clutch swap is easy just make sure that it will bleed afterwards. :rant:

:rant:

j9fd3s, you're using 12A split on a 13B :redface: (unless it's better than the 10º he recommends for 13Bs). I'm gonna try switching my Trailing ignition off while driving under various loads and conditions to see if I lose any power. I'm running DLIDFIS with a carb here.

Can someone tell me how to lock the advance? Yaw's article said very little and gave no details about how. Anyone have any details? Thanks.

Inside the distributer there are weights and springs that mechanically advance the

timing. Then there are the two vacuum advance (one leading, one trailing) that

change advance based on vacuum.



To lock the advance, you would need to remove the WHOLE distributer,

completely disassemble the Whole distributer,

remove the weights and springs,

then secure the two halves of the distributer shaft together by either

drilling, threading, and screwing them together, or welding the parts together.



Then re-assemble, re-install, and re-time the distributer.



Oh, and don't forget to remove the vacuum lines too. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

why does timing have to be such a beioch what if you start the car and its way off and you get a nice ping and then there goes your engine https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif so how do you know wheather or not your timing is way off if your installing a new distributer. for ex: i'm swapping in a gsl-se motor on saturday and i doesn't have a dizzy so i have to use the one from my 12a and i heard that the "timing curves" are different so how do i set it before handso i can just start it up to then be able to set the timing with out blowing my $hit up?

Just align the circular mark on dist. gear with the mark on the dist. housing.



Make sure the crank (eccentric) shaft timing marks are @ TDC, drop in the dist.

Install the dist. hold down bolt finger tight in the middle of the slot.



When you're ready to time, it should be close enough to start the motor.



As far as PINGs, it won't ping at idle.

2 reasons; 1, the combustion pressures are lower at idle.

2, the air/fuel mix is being diluted by the exhaust gasses being passed from

the exhaust to the intake through the channel (combustion "chamber") in the

face of the rotor.



So, if you start the motor and time it before revving it, no worries! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Courtesy of my Haynes Manual:

Good Morning SmogFighter;

Since we are on this subject of Timming issues.

I gots one for you.



When you line up the leading mark on the pulley and turn it 1 revolution the Disti Rotor is facing the opposite direction i.e. Arrow on the Rotor Cap.

There is a dot on the top of the shaft also. So when do you know that you are set up correctly besides linning the Bottom Gear https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/unsure.png

I gots Bumped!!!

Never finished last Post;

Anyhew.

Linning up Bottom Gear with Dimmple/Talley Mark if you turn the Pulley 1 more revolution you end up with it facing the opposite direction???

Any clue which is the right way to start from scratch besides your great info above.

Thanks

steve

sgieldon https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif

How does making another rotation face it the other way???Thats wierd.I just lined up the dimple and tally and droped it in and fired it up.https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



Luis

Hey Luis;

Trust me! If you are looking at the Rotor Cap and line up the Pulley to the First Mark i.e. Leading and turn the Pulley one more Revolution you will notice that the arrow on the Rotor is facing the opposite direction. The Tally Marks & the Bottom Disti Gear will be also facing the other direction??? Don't Figure!!!

I have 3 Distributors and they all do the same thing.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.png



Still waiting on My RB Holley to get back. I have a feeling that they are going to sit on the one that I sent back last Monday until they get tired of me calling them. Where the F@#%& is my Carb.

Have a good Sunday.

Steve

sgieldon

the distributor turns half of crank speed. on the 2nd gens there are 2 way to put in the cas the both work fine



mike

Mike's right.

we Hijacked louis' thread on his clutch about timing and ran with it.



If you look at your rotor, you'll see that there are two paths for the spark to

follow.

Here is a diagram of rotor #1 firing

Then #2...

OK, I am a dumbass https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif , when I wrote this I didn't verify the 4 cycle part of this.



I just went out tonight 7-APR-03 and verified my settings with my timing light (it

has a 2/4 cycle switch). https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif



The 4 cycle setting is double (X2) the 2 cycle setting! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif



My profuse apologies to all who read this earlier and set thier timing to 1/4th

of where they wanted it. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif



I hope I don't get https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/flamed.gif too badly for this https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blush.png



Raul

Hey, guess what????



For DLIDFS ignition, you need to multiply your timing setting x4.



Which means, for you to set your timing to, say, 20*, You would then multiply x4

and set your gun to 80* advance @4000 rpm.



I hope this isn't too cornfusing https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif



Raul

Hey Raul;

Nothing you say is to confusing. But you sure are into these wonderfull but time consuming machines!!!!

steve https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif