I did a search, but wasn't able to find what I was looking for.



I have an 84 GSL-SE converted to carb by the previous owner. It's got an RB 6-port manifold and a 600cfm, vac secondary, Holley 4160.



It hasn't ever run quite right, and I can't remember if the previous owner said it was a RB modified Holley or not.



So my questions are:

1. Does RB mark the carb in any way to show it's an RB modified Holley?

2. Search hinted around to the RB modifications, but no specifics. Anyone care to elaborate via PM so if my carb is in fact a non-modified one, I know what needs to be done to make it run right?



Thanks

Marc

A 600 Holley is too big unless you're heavily ported or running a draw-through forced induction setup (turbo or supercharger). If you're not ported, step down to a 465 cfm Holley.

The carb is ok on a stock port, been there done that (since you have it already). If i was gonna get a new carb I would get a 500cfm Edelbrock thunder series (cheap and easily tuneable). This Holley worked well on the exact same engine on a friends car, what you need to do is add a 1/2" "open" spacer between the carb and intake (I would get a wood phenolic spacer) then get a secondary spring kit from a speed shop and put a stiffer spring in your carb's vacuum diaphram for the secondaries. Also, make sure you are running the vacuum to the distributor from the manifold rather than the carb. If you are inclined to do any disassembly check to see that you have a 6.5 power valve in the primary metering block. Float adjustment is critical on a holley as well. I am sitting on a holley 850 double pumper (too big I know, I've just had it for a couple decades), 650 vac secondary, 650 Edelbrock thunder series and a BarryGrant 650 double pumper s/c carb (still in the box). I have run all but the Barry Grant (did the big holley to prove a dispute) on top of my Camden so far.

Right now, the power valve has a plug, and it's sitting on a 1" open spacer. I've got a spring kit, but haven't got around to changing them. I'll probably get the holley quick change kit before doing so. The car needs tires and brakes, so it'll be down awhile, so I figured I would try to take time to get the carb running right, since it is just sitting.



I'll check into the edelbrock carb, as that is not the first time someone has suggested them. I've also considered swapping to a dell'orto/weber/mikuni setup, though they're a bit pricey for my taste.

Get the Edelbrock, just make sure you get a "thuder series" carb. http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc...c/thunder.shtml The 500 cfm would be perfect. To adjust the secondaries you just adjust the spring tension on the secondary plate, takes seconds. To change primary fuel jetting you loosen two screws and swap metering rods, no mess! What are the primary jets that you are running now? You say it isn't running right, what is it doing?

I've been working out issues between carb and ignition. I think the carb *may* be okay now, but the ignition is acting up. Before the ignition problem, it ran/idled well, but seems to run out of breath around 6k. I've got the spring kit, just haven't changed them out yet. Possibly could be secondary float level, I haven't checked it since the ignition problem arose before I got that far along. As far as primary jets, I believe the primary jets were 56 or 60, it's been a long while so don't quote me on that.



Ignition problem I believe is a bad ignitor, I left my spare 20 minutes away from the car, so I'll be checking it out with the other ignitor tomorrow. She'll start and idle around 100rpm (yes, one-hundred RPM) and sound like CRAP. I can give it some gas but it doesn't help much, revs to ~ 1k rpm before sputtering and wanting to die. Search on the other forum basically confirmed it is a bad ignitor, just need to swap it out.



Anyhow, prior to that, the carb had some serious issues: from vacuum leaks, to sticking needle and seat, to damaged idle mix screws, looked like a tear in the secondary vacuum diaphragm. I did a rebuild with a cheap rebuild kit, which has caused me some grief. I've since had to replace gaskets for adjustment nut/screw on both needle and seats. Also, I had a seriously out of whack (or stuck) float level on the primary side. It was dripping fuel into the carb whenever the pump was running. Turned out when I pulled out the screw to look at the float level, fuel GUSHED out of the hole. I adjusted the float level way down, and it barely trickles out that hole now.



The ignition wasn't too bad, it had heat range 9 plugs which were fouling out like crazy, a leaking trailing coil, shitty wires, weak battery, etc. She now sports MSD Blaster2 coils, new battery, new ngk wires and new plugs (2nd gen plugs, as they didn't have 1st gen in stock https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif ) and now a bad ignitor.



I have a lot on my plate tomorrow, but if I get a chance I'll try to confirm the jet size.

your jets sound too small. Get a 6.5 power valve in there and keep the jets as they are to test.

I looked at the car today. I have the 56 jets in a box, and I think I bought 2 sizes smaller than current, so that'd make them 60s.



Also, had the car running and it seems to run fine, however, it's not under a load yet, so it's all the carb's primary side. I made a video of it because some people on another forum wanted to hear it. I like it, considering an aux bridge on it, depending how much it hurts my wallet. heh.



Here's the vid in case you or any one else wanted to see.

Right Click, Save as.

Also, I checked float levels on both Primary and Secondary. With the car at a slight incline, no fuel leaks out when I remove the plugs. The level is JUST under the holes, so on a level it should barely trickle out.

wow. i'm hearing some different things on this site. a holley 600 for a stock 13b doesn't seem too big. i have mine on my ported 12a and it does fine. as for set up...... yeah you will need to change the spring in the vacuum. i use the yellow spring ( lightest spring to open the secondaries faster)..... as for the springs i also changed the cam to the green one set on #2 screw hole....( the cam controls the squirter on top wich will control the bog when you take off)....... after that i am running 65 jets in the primary and a #9 metering plate for secondaries( wich is about 68 jets).... i can't remember what size of squirter i have, i believe it is a 28. as for that i also drilled out th air holes in the secondary side on top of the carb. the 2 middle i drilled to .043 and the outsides i drilled to .052. i'm not sure exactly what they do i was just told to do it awhile ago by someone i trust with these carbs. has something to do with letting the gas flow better. and a spacer is worth it, so is boring out the intake. hope this helps someone out on here.

**Warning** previous poster shoots flames. Don't stand near the exhaust pipe.



I agree with kettle though not too big.

Thanks man! This is the kinda info I'm looking for. Mine is setup a bit differently, but until I get her on the road I won't know for sure how she's running. IIRC I have the orange cam, #7 metering plate, and 60 primaries. I couldn't tell ya much else. As far as the drilling out, do you have a pic or anything to describe it? I'm still pretty new to carbs, so I'm not sure what you mean there.

i can get some up soon. i'm in a middle of a move, well, at the ass end of one. the metering plate you can drill some .068 holes in the bottom . thats what i did. i have a #8 metering plte drilled to .068. and the cam makes a hell of a difference. i had a jewler get some bits from his wholesale place. he was cool.

I'll look around to see if I can find more info. I'll know better how my car is running when I get it on the road. It stumbles if I try to hold the RPM at like 4k. I'm guessing that's an indication I'm needing more fuel?

or having too much also. ut if you have a #7 plate in there i'm sure it's too little.

Well when it does that is sitting still. The secondaries don't even open up at that point, and the stumbling is there. I'm sure larger jets will be easier to find than the 56s which took some shopping around. I got them before because someone told me my jets were too large. It stumbles holding RPM, but any time I'm using the accel pump it runs like a champ. I'd think it would bog adding fuel instead of smoothing out if they were too large.



After I get it on the road, I'll have to do a few pulls and check the plugs to see what they look like. They're new so should be easy to tell lean/rich.

lol we seem to be in the same boat errr.. my friend has had holleys on his 12a for ever..he said thta caz im using the power vavle block off plug i needed to run a 68 jet..and it seems to be doing fine once i get get going...but there is the worst kick and buck ever err im still trying to get rid of it...it feels to lean on idle and take off..this is what i have dont to the carb right now



holley 650 vac 2nd

#68jets

pink cam 3rd hole

power vavle block off plug

#31 squarter

blocked off the air bleeds a little bit(with thin wire)

1in spacer



but there is still a err dead spot if i hit the gas it will die out to much air



i need to check and see if primary throttle open past the progressive slots. if it does i need to Close up the primaries a bit, and open up the secondaries https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



i need to drill the idle circuits 1 size bigger



check what acc pump i have in it



check what spring is in the vac



here are some videos the float where not set right so it kept fallin on its face err



video 1 right click and save



video 2 right click and save

Are you running the 68s on a stock port 12a? If so, I think I need to jet a bit bigger on my stock port 13b. heh

I see also you're running a 650 to my 600. Hrm

yeah im running the 68's...becaz of the power vavle block off plug you need to run a bigger jet.. caz its not adding more fule like it should. so it will help richen it up https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png...

Looks like a trip to Oreilly's is in order to pick up some bigger jets. Or perhaps I'll buy a jet kit if I decide to stick with the holley. I'm tempted to switch to a Mech secondary holley though, but might hold off til the future on that one.