OK I give up! I've been trying to adjust my timing and i cant! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

Here's whats happening.......I line up the yellow mark on the pulley w/ the pin on the block...Then put the distributor rotor close or at L1.....and when i point the timing light to it, it does not line up at all! its waaaay off! and i cant retard the timing w/the light. the distributor stops before the light lines up w/the yellow mark(counter clockwise) wich way is advance ? clockwise?......i was told to retard it 15 deegres B/C i'm boosting 12PSI...

How do i find TDC? could the pulley be wrong? or put back wrong? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif

DAMMIT!!!! What do U guys recommend? This started happening after i swap my distributor https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif And My ******* turbo Glows Red all the time ! even if i dont drive hard......And also Boost kicks in a Lot quicker 2500 RPM's WTF? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/unsure.png

I'm using a snap on timing light model # MT2261

here's a pic of how the turbo looks like after a short run=(....

I'm swaping the turbo tonight and dont want to **** the other one up https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR

Thanks in advance 4 any helpo https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y2...Picture067.jpg

^^^Thanks! i'll try that ,Do yoou guys know how to put the engine @ TDC by looking At the flywheel thrugh the Inspection plate? I heard about it but i dont remember how

I think the pulley was installed wrong https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/angry.png

if the distributor cant adjust far enough, maybe you're a tooth off?

[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Aug 16 2005, 05:10 PM']if the distributor cant adjust far enough, maybe you're a tooth off?


[/quote]

I tryed that too and it makes it the same thing the other way arround(clockwise) https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

I also tried the other method today....puting the rear rotor apexseal between the two plug holes,and the freaking car doesnt even idle https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif

I'm so pissed off !!! My new turbo is glowing too https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

I'm just gonna sell this **** ,I dont have time 4 this bullcrap https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/violin.gif

[quote name='BlownSE' date='Aug 16 2005, 08:17 PM']I tryed that too and it makes it the same thing the other way arround(clockwise) https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

I also tried the other method today....puting the rear rotor apexseal between the two plug holes,and the freaking car doesnt even idle https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif

I'm so pissed off !!! My new turbo is glowing too https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

I'm just gonna sell this **** ,I dont have time 4 this bullcrap https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/violin.gif


[/quote]



It sounds to be retarded. I believe counter clockwise retards, clockwise advances. What sideof the pin is the mark on (towards air pump or towards A/C). Since you are turning it counter-clockwise to get it closer, I believe that the mark would be on the A/C side of the pin.



To find TDC, there are a couple ways to go about it:

1. the key on the pulley at 9 o'clock = TDC. To get this, the e-shaft bolt has to come of and you risk droping the front bearings (read the mazdatrix FAQ about this)



2. I hear that there is a notch in the flywheel. When it lines up with the inspection plate on the passenger side of the engine, you are at TDC.



3. The way I check is turn the engine to your leading mark. This is suppose to be close to TDC. Take out the leading/trailing plugs on the front rotor housing. Use a light and mirror to see the rotor position and or use something small and soft like a straw to feel around. At TDC, the front rotor should be parallel to the housing. The straw should go in equal distances on T1 and L1. If one goes further than the other, the pulley is wrong. Turn the engine slowly while feeling the distance of the rotor (both T1 and L1). When the distance is the closest and equal for both of them, you are at TDC. Remove the pulley and rotate it to where the pin is closest to the leading mark. If you did this right, it should line up close.



Once at TDC, take the pulley off (if it is wrong) and put it back on with the leading mark closest to the timing pin.



Any method chosen, you will need to pull the dizzy. I line the dimple of the drive gear to the mark on the shaft. Hold the rotor from spining and drop into place trying to get the hold down bolt closest to the center of the dizzy slot.



Now for other options:

1. Make sure leading/trailing ignitor connectors are in the right spot.

2. Make sure you are connected to L1 when timing.

3. Make sure the connections from the ignitor to the coils are not swaped.

4. Try a different light. I know it is a nice one, but even nice ones can work incorrectly with the direct fire setups. It may be triggering off of what would normally be the L2 spark.



Also, you have a locked dizzy (full advance) with no vac advance, right? I have not dealed with these, but you may need to move it one tooth at a time until you can get it lined up (this is because it is at full advance. This also makes sense because you are having to retard it to get it closer). Move it one tooth at a time until the leading mark is near the center of the adjustment (I believe this is 5 degrees ATDC on the SE). Then reatrd it the amount desired using the RB pulley, or marking the stock one. Just as a reference the trailing mark should be 15 degrees retarded from leading normally, so your 12 degrees will be close to that mark (still between the stock leading and trailing marks).



Hope this helps.



Kent

Thanks Kent! You allways come to Teh Rescue

Good to know you are here!=)