i want t completely dewire the entire engine bay and car if possible. i dont care about the stock gauge cluster working cause its comeing out. the only thing i need is the brkae and headlights.



i'll be putting oil pressure, engine temp, and a tach seperetly.



how would i start this project? what wires do i need? the wires in this engine bay are pretty chopped up as it is. i just want to finish what someone else started

so i started this today by cutting all the wires that didnt go to anything anyway. wich turned out to be a pile of wires.



I wanna know if i can remove the smaller wire that goes from the positive battery cable to the little fuses on the driver side strut tower. what are they for?



What about the clip to the back of the alternator? and the single wire from the alternator? they both lead to the main harness. would i need both?

and what about the wires from the main harness that are on the coil? cut them or not???

Try www.mazspeed.com, then under the left hand list try "Facts".

There's a link to wiring diagrams in there, so you can trace all the wires by colour and harness.

what year is your 7? I did what you are doing and I screwed up like 4 times and had to rewire the engine bay each time I screwed up. There is a couple of questions I have to ask before I say anything. Is this going to to be push button start? is there going to be a special ignition system? electric fan? do you want your lights to work(interior)? is there going to be a stereo, or is this a full on race car?

its a 1980. with a 83-85 12a in it.

yes a push button start.

stock ignition system.

stock radiator fan.

i want the lights to work yes.

no stereo.



basically, just the rear lights and headlights. so i could ocasionally drive it on the street.



no need for any dash items, or anything inside to work.

well then you do need the bridge block by the battery. As for the rest of the wiring, I SUGGEST this being a personal opinion of course, that you convert the 80 ignition to a 81-85 with the J-109 igniters, because you will be able to find them should they blow out, that box for the 80 is impossible to find at any auto parts store. As for the wiring you will need at least one black w/ white stripe wire for the ignition and alternator (that wire is the key switch HOT wire, other then that you will need to take it REALLY slow this is not a weekend project if you want it done right. You will need to pull the dash and source each wire individually or else you could cause all sorts of electrical issues. There is alot of useless emissions wiring that can be removed. BUT you need to source all of them if you want to complete this correctly. If you want emissions to work you can do a modern setup with two mono cats (one for each rotor) and tune for the correct mixture and timing. It should pass assuming that the cats are new. And NO you do not need the "high" flow kind because you not displacing enough cfm per cycle per rotor to need a "high" flow unit.

you think you could post of pic of your engine bay?



my engine bay wiring was pretty well hacked up before it came to me. maybe some pics of how you did it would help me out here. thanks for the tips so far. but wiring is my weakness.



what are the bridge blocks used for? why would i need them?



and for the one black w/ white stripe wire for the ignition and alternator, do i use the pos+ from the coil and the small clip in the back of the alternator spliced together?



do any other wires at all need to be ran to the coils besides the pos+ and neg- from the distriubtor?



thanks man...

The bridge blocks are the interior of the car. The block is to distribute electricity to the system in a particular way. I haven't gone so far as to remove that block ( I wasn't sure everything would work if I did) If I am not mistaken about the "clip" that is a radio frequency reducer, since your not using a radio it's not necessary. If you are not going to use the nikki, AND you do not care about any of the idiot lights all you should need to do now is look at the wiring that goes to the lights and NOT cut those. BUT be careful you really need to think about what gauges you are going to use and how they are going to be wired in before you button up the whole thing or else you'll have to do what I did which is rewire AGAIN and no ones likes to do that. If you need anyhing in more detail drop me a pm. Cheers