Option6

Car care is covered in the Haynes manual, so there is a good place to start.



I installed a Fram "SureDRAIN" from Canadian Tire ($19). Type is SD2. This makes changing the oil EVEN EASIER then it already is (I love the top-mounted oil filter!!). I just about stripped my 25 year old oil drain bolt the first time I did an oil change, and quickly replaced it with the Fram part. Now I don't even need to jack the car up... just reach under and loosen the finger-tight cap, and screw in the drain hose which begins the oil flow. Because the oil filter is at the top, you can replace it while the oil is draining!



I usually stock up on the premium Motomaster oil filters when they are on sale, but use whatever you feel like.



Most rotorheads will probably tell you to go with Castrol 20W50 oil, but that isn't very practical where we are. I use 20W50 in the summer, and 10W30 in the winter without any problems. Oddly enough, I found my car smoked a lot more on startup (after sitting more than a day or two) when I switched to 20W50. I was hoping the heavier oil wouldn't seep into my rotor housings as quickly (my oil control rings seem to be on the way out).



You should consider changing your fuel filter (aprox every 10,000K)... it is a quick swap that costs less than $5.



While you have the back end of the car jacked up (in fact, you should have the entire car up on jack stands) it wouldn't hurt to replace the gear oil in your rear differential and transmission. I'm considering trying their light "Shockproof" oil, but currently use Red Line 75W90 in the rear and MTL-90 in the tranny. Both types are $10.83 a quart at Guyons Performance (3702 Edmonton Tr NE, Calgary AB) and they keep them in stock at all times. I bought a small $12 pump from CT (in the jerry can aisle) to get the oil into the housings. A 10 minute job!



Definately clean that gunk out of your cooling system! A good flush is recommended. I have not found an easy way to do this as I don't want to be flushing out all the coolant in my alley (touchy neighbours and all). I just used a very large pan under the car in the garage and kept draining the system into that, keeping the stuff for proper disposal. I replaced all my aging hoses (top hose from Auto Value Parts, lower from CT.. about $15 each), and a few feet of bulk heater hose as well. My hoses all had the original clamps (which I dislike), so grab some new stainless steel hose clamps if required. Make sure to only use distilled water and coolant. I sprung for a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter as well.



I looked at the cost of replacing my distributor cap and rotor and decided it wasn't worth throwing $50+ at something that would require further maintenance down the road. I'm planning on using the parts I grabbed from the '80 at Pick Your Part to upgrade to electronic ignition (my '79 uses a points distributor) while at the same time doing a DLIDFIS install.



Check your coils, wires, and plugs to see if they are within factory specifications and decide if it is worth upgrading or replacing them yet.



That's about all I can think of right now for basic maintenance. Then again, I'm still learning about all this stuff myself!

Alak

Ya my car died today. Well, its fine, but it wont fire. I mean, I crank it and crank it and every so often it goes to wanna run, but just quits. I checked the spark plugs and there was like nothing left. So Im going to replace them tomorrow and see what happens. Everyone says that theres no fuel getting to the plugs, but belive me, the engine is getting plenty of fuel to the plugs. I took out a plug to see if it worked, it barely sparked and fuel was plenty spraying out the hole. I also completely cooked my starter in the process of like 4 hours of cranking (while trying different things). I need a new one, anyone know any compatable ones I can find if I can't find an RX-7 Specific one for cheap? Im definately going to replace the fuel filter. Other than that, I have no idea what the problem is. I havent checked compression yet, but my instict tells me that its fine considering the amount of pressurized fuel that shot out. And no Im not out of gas, I have like half a tank. The engine is fine though, like it was purrring like a kitten when I let it warm up this morning. And it drive fine. Then it just died. I had a similar problem on my van one time, only it wasnt getting power to the spark plugs. The ignition module was cooked. This is getting power to the plugs, just barely. And what do I do if it floods, which obviously happend with 4 hours of work and no firing? Any other suggestions are greatly appriciated. I have 2 other questions:



Wheres the Fuel Filter Located?



Wheres the Fuel Pump Located?





I also checked my brakes out today and noticed that my wheels on the front are hard to rotate. Like the brake is kinda still on. Is that a sign to replace a caliper? Or you think it could be a bearing problem?





P.S. I havent gotten my Hanynes Manual Yet, hence the questions.

drifter

fuel filter and pump is under the car near the fuel tank.

Option6

I killed my starter after dealing with a bout of BAD carbon lock in the fall. I called *everywhere* and just ended up getting a Bosch (rebuilt) starter (with 5/yr warranty) from Canadian Tire for $129.72 (with exchange of your old starter).



I replaced all my battery/starter cables at the same time with 1 guage wire. I can't recall the exact lengths required, but the parts counter has them in their computer. Consider adding an additional ground point to your alternator as well. Linky



In addition to why/how to add an extra ground point to your alternator, the website has other excelent articles (including removing the fuel tank, unflooding the engine, spark plug life expectancy, and something to read before replacing the starter) found here:



http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firstGenTech.html

http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/gen7Tech.html



Before I forget, here is a chartof the 1st Gen paint codes you were asking about.



My front tires have a bit of resistance when turned by hand, but I always figured that was inherent of the caliper design.. maybe I'm wrong? I had my front driver-side caliper LOCK UP on a weekend in Golden, B.C. Don't ask how I got it home. It may be worth having checked over by a professional.



As for diagnosis, the Haynes manual just says "High-quality radio test equipment is necessary to test the condensers, so if they are suspect it is more economical to try new ones". Keep a lookout at the salvage yards for a few spares.



You really should get the manual before trying to replace and diagnose any more problems... that $20 will pay for itself quickly! It has a full troubleshooting section that can help you check items in a logical order to reduce the chance of mis-diagnosis (eg. buying new $200 ignitors before checking spark plug wire resistance and ignition coil condition, etc.).

Alak

Ok, I checked Compression today. Its fine, engine is top notch. As for my new starter, well, I bought it used and ended up breaking shortly after I tested my compression. I think its time for that bosch from canadian tire. As for spark plugs, The part source on 52nd Street NE has em, but for $12.50 EACH. They are the NGK platnium ones. I took a good look over everything, and I noticed my car has quite a few 'loose ends', as in the last owner chucked quite a few things. The main things I noticed were wires I was told that were for the pollution equipment stuff that is completely vacant from the car (Woohoo!) Theres alot of other wires too on the starter side of the transmisson that just dont seem to go anywhere. Just stray looking single wires, ones that look like they are for sensors and such. I looked at diagrams and of the wiring, and I can't seem to find a place for them. So I'll just leave it.



The sadest part of all, is that this car is my first experience with a rotary engine. And the worst part of it is, I think this whole time it was just flooded. I mean, I cranked it for hours trying different things and techniques I used on my old Chevys and they just didnt work. In the process I killed my starter and stirred up alot of other stuff too. Im the kinda guy that breaks one thing in the process of fixing another. All this time it was probably just flooded.





*Takes out white glove and slaps self in the face*



Oh well, live and learn I guess.



Oh BTW, I stopped by pick-your-part and alls they had was one RX-7 in the whole place (Well they had another 1981 that was complete and for sale). But the stripped one was an 84 GSL, and it was just that, stripped. Absolutely nothing on it, alls I got was a Mazda RX-7 emblem off the side. No engine or anything. Only thing of interest left was the rear end and disc brakes. Is it possible to put that rear end and disc brakes into my 1980? I think I read somwhere you can do it with great difficulty.



Anyways, Its sleep time. Tommorrow, I start my day with a quest for a starter.

Option6

The plugs are expensive, but at least we only need 4. My NGK BR7ET sparkplugs are $9.99 ea. at PartSource. I'm suprised the BR8ET for the 1980 is that much more.

Alak

You can put any 12A capatable spark plugs into your car. My car takes the BR8ET, but I've got BR8ET-14Q (Or something) in it. The spark plugs that are specified for 81-85 12A's. The only difference is that the newer plugs have 4 ground electrodes instead of 3. So in other words, the newer plugs are better. My car is in top notch shape, I hosed the engine down with a 3500 psi pressure washer (Used for Tractor-Trailers), its sparkling clean now, and I can see where the oil likes to seep out. Im gonna do a change and throw some 10w30 in it with a FRAM Double Guard Oil filter. I looked for a K&N Oil Filter, but they were out of stock.





Anyone here running synthetic oil in their car? What kinda gas milage you getting?

drifter

I put an 81 rear on a 79 with little difficulty (sic). So I can't see any problems.



ITs a very good upgrade.

85Daddy12A

I'm gettin a new rear end in my 85' pretty soon.

Alak

How do you tell if its an LSD or Locker? I think my 80 has a locker because when I do a brake stand, both tyres spin. That and on ice and crap, both tyres spin. I should stop the brake stand though, my Pirelli Tyres are wearing down.