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interesting,,, I dont use carbons or ceramics, I use atkins I leave the line at 10,800. My rotors dont have any fancy balancing thing done. Nor do I have hardened stat gears. Then again Im not pp. but My **** does rev, I dont know food for thought. As far as Mazda PP housings I have a few friends and their pp housings are home made. Lets get one thing strait Im am Not trying to play who's the smarter rotary mechanic Because its not me. All Im saying is it dosent take a million dollar budget to build a serious piece and there is always more than one way to skin a cat.
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Originally Posted by ctheodore' post='911451' date='Nov 11 2008, 04:33 AM
wow that fantasic advice thanks.. something i never thought of is that I had to get official 12a PP housings, I was planning on using my current housings which i think are 12a Turbo housings, I take it they won't do the job?
mine are custom PP housings too. |
Originally Posted by bigboi12A' post='911462' date='Nov 11 2008, 05:58 AM
interesting,,, I dont use carbons or ceramics, I use atkins I leave the line at 10,800. My rotors dont have any fancy balancing thing done. Nor do I have hardened stat gears. Then again Im not pp. but My **** does rev, I dont know food for thought. As far as Mazda PP housings I have a few friends and their pp housings are home made. Lets get one thing strait Im am Not trying to play who's the smarter rotary mechanic Because its not me. All Im saying is it dosent take a million dollar budget to build a serious piece and there is always more than one way to skin a cat.
thats the cool thing about drag racing, you are not at high rpm very long so you can get away without the hardened gears and stuff. we calculated it out, a FULL season of IDRC racing, is about 15 minutes. |
that makes sense,,, 15 min north of 10k thats alot! Whats IDRC?
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Originally Posted by bigboi12A' post='911512' date='Nov 11 2008, 03:59 PM
that makes sense,,, 15 min north of 10k thats alot! Whats IDRC?
http://www.importdrag.com/ the import drags that survived, i think, or maybe it was battle of the imports i dunno |
hey guys.. thanks for help so far,
1) I'm having trouble finding the "competition manual" mentioned earlier? 2) what about torque of a 12aPP (I hear it's not that good), would it still be better than a 12a street or bridge port? cheers Craig |
as was said before, no, it's not easy. however, i say go for it. obviously with time, dedication, patience and money it can be done.
as for the Competition manual, do a search using ".pdf" and "competition", i downloaded it earlier tonight after reading this thread. cheerio! |
Originally Posted by ctheodore' post='911350' date='Nov 9 2008, 01:19 AM
Why 12a? simply put "money"...if I go 13b PP, I need a 13b block, S4 gearbox & lightend fly wheel (because of excess power), tailshaft adjustment?, 13b extractors (I assume)...
but with a 12a, I hope to keep the same extractors, gearbox, use my current block etc.. open to suggestions of course cya Craig P.S: I probably shouldn't assume my Series 2/3 gearbox will survive even with a 12a PP? Allso consider the laws regarding legal car mods in OZ cause you can only legaly fit a 13B into a series 3 RX7. |
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