[BDC]

I've been working on the technical part of my new gallery for the past couple of days and remembered that I had made some pictures detailing the assembly of the front cover parts about 2 1/2 years ago. Well, needless to say, they're on the gallery now. This is for those of you guys that get confused by the shop manual's description or are just unsure exactly how to do this job...

http://bdc.cyberosit...Cover-Assembly/

B

[Judge Ito]

good info. I always check for end play before i put the timing cover on.. very helpful info with pics.

[BDC]

Judge Ito, on Jan 26 2006, 05:44 PM, said:

good info. I always check for end play before i put the timing cover on.. very helpful info with pics.

Yep I sometimes tend to forget but that's the proper way to do it, especially if any hardparts have been replaced during assembly.

Anybody else found the factory manual to be a bit deficient here?

B

[teknics]

that is amazingly helpful. and yes the manual sucks.

kevin.

[BDC]

teknics, on Feb 11 2006, 02:32 PM, said:

that is amazingly helpful. and yes the manual sucks.

kevin.

Thanks, Teknics. It really loused me up the first couple of times I tried using it many years ago. I remember thinking then that I wanted to document the proper procedure.

B

[iceblue]

Just for reference as stated to always check the end play but you must do this with the parts un lubed and if the items check out ok tear down and reassembly with lube.

[jwteknix]

volume!!!!!!!!!

[BDC]

iceblue, on Mar 10 2007, 05:30 PM, said:

Just for reference as stated to always check the end play but you must do this with the parts un lubed and if the items check out ok tear down and reassembly with lube.

Yep, stacking the items up in a step prior to doing the actual assembly. It's also a good and quick way to see if there's a problem w/ the stack itself. Ever had something keep the crank from turning while doing the front cover assy?

B

[ChainSawOnSteroids]

BDC, on Mar 13 2007, 01:22 PM, said:

Yep, stacking the items up in a step prior to doing the actual assembly. It's also a good and quick way to see if there's a problem w/ the stack itself. Ever had something keep the crank from turning while doing the front cover assy?

B

???Elaborate please???

[knonfs]

BDC, on Sep 20 2005, 03:11 AM, said:

I've been working on the technical part of my new gallery for the past couple of days and remembered that I had made some pictures detailing the assembly of the front cover parts about 2 1/2 years ago. Well, needless to say, they're on the gallery now. This is for those of you guys that get confused by the shop manual's description or are just unsure exactly how to do this job...

http://bdc.cyberosit...Cover-Assembly/

B

B,

GREAT info!

Quick question though, what would happen if the cas gear sporcket is fitted with the beveled part towards the fron cover instead of the iron?

I can't remember if "overlooked" this :banghead:

[BDC]

knonfs, on Mar 20 2007, 06:33 AM, said:

B,

GREAT info!

Quick question though, what would happen if the cas gear sporcket is fitted with the beveled part towards the fron cover instead of the iron?

I can't remember if "overlooked" this :banghead:

Nothing. :)

B

[knonfs]

BDC, on Mar 20 2007, 10:50 AM, said:

Nothing. :)

B

Thanks, u r the man!

:dbanana:

[AnthonyNYC]

What if the thrust washer was facing the wrong way?

Thanks,

Anthony

BDC, on Mar 20 2007, 10:50 AM, said:

Nothing. :)

B

[heretic]

BDC, on Mar 13 2007, 09:22 AM, said:

Ever had something keep the crank from turning while doing the front cover assy?

Note sure what you mean by that, as I've found the main problem to be keeping the cursed bearing spacer from dropping.

What I ended up doing is bolting a piece of angle iron across two bellhousing bolts so that it holds the E-shaft up. The bolts are spring loaded with valvesprings so the shaft can drop back down when I snug things up.

[BDC]

AnthonyNYC, on Apr 17 2007, 10:14 AM, said:

What if the thrust washer was facing the wrong way?

Thanks,

Anthony

The stack would have zero endplay, would become instantly short, and would destroy the thrust bearings and some of the front thrust assembly in short order. Know how I know? :banghead:

B

[AnthonyNYC]

BDC, on Apr 24 2007, 12:54 AM, said:

The stack would have zero endplay, would become instantly short, and would destroy the thrust bearings and some of the front thrust assembly in short order. Know how I know? :banghead:

B

I took apart a motor this weekend, turns out the thrust washer was not facing the right way or the oil gear. The guy ended up blowing the motor due to detonation I think, (the rotor was dented) and the apex seal gone on the front rotor.

I'll post some pics of the thrust washer after a few hundred miles. It looks like it was starting to go. if you can tell me what you think that would be great.

Thanks for the response,

Anthony

This post has been edited by AnthonyNYC: 24 April 2007 - 07:44 PM

[need rx7]

iceblue, on 10 March 2007 - 08:30 PM, said:

Just for reference as stated to always check the end play but you must do this with the parts un lubed and if the items check out ok tear down and reassembly with lube.

BDC, on 13 March 2007 - 12:22 PM, said:

Yep, stacking the items up in a step prior to doing the actual assembly. It's also a good and quick way to see if there's a problem w/ the stack itself. Ever had something keep the crank from turning while doing the front cover assy?

B

Sorry for bringing up such an old topic, but what difference does having everything lubed make?

[electronicsguru22]

The link no longer works... Is this information still available?

[need rx7]

electronicsguru22, on 01 September 2009 - 11:35 PM, said:

The link no longer works... Is this information still available?

http://bdc.cyberosit...?g2_itemId=1940

[heretic]

need rx7, on 13 August 2009 - 10:23 PM, said:

Sorry for bringing up such an old topic, but what difference does having everything lubed make?

The oil takes up some of the clearance and adds some stiction, making it difficult to get an accurate measurement.

I'm lazy so I only put it together once and check it with a prybar on the flywheel. If it clunks, ship it. If it won't move, pull it apart and find out why.

I have only ever had one that didn't move, and that was because I mixed front end stack parts from different engines. Normally when I disassemble a core, I wire-tie the washer/bearings/spacer together so they can be reused as a set. On this particular engine the washer had severe spalling wear on one side so I grabbed a washer from a different engine. Oops.

Because I was short on time, I grabbed the original, spalled washer and put it in backwards so the main thrust loads from the clutch would be pushing on the smooth face. Perhaps not the best solution in hindsight but at the time, I was in a real big hurry to get the engine together, and philosophically I didn't expect the engine to last very long anyway. I've been using THAT car as a daily driver all year, since my regular driver decided to be a piece of crap, and it's still running just fine.