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Gp Sports Super Angle Kit anyone use it??
#1
Posted 08 June 2005 - 02:42 PM
o also plan on redusing the lock to lock turning to 180 each way...if anyone has done that before i would like input there too :)
#3
Posted 08 June 2005 - 05:40 PM
#6
Posted 09 June 2005 - 06:03 PM
Ricer240sx, on Jun 8 2005, 11:42 AM, said:
o also plan on redusing the lock to lock turning to 180 each way...if anyone has done that before i would like input there too :)

Welcome to the aggrevating world of driftinng FCs, enjoy!!!! :)
No, seriously once the car is setup properly its a drift machine, in my opinion more stable and controlable than 240's. The best way I can rate the FC is it being a intermedaite-pro, were as a 240 is a beginner. A few of my friends that have FCs jumped into 240's and looked like they have been drifiting for years.
Well on the Angle kits, the GP Sports and SuperNow!'s are pretty much identical other than the aluminum rods being orangish/gold (Possibly just rebadged SuperNow!'s). I recommend SuperNow!'s for a couple reasons, one they offer a race version (high strength rod end for high load applications), I know more people running SuperNow!'s than GP Sports. Lastly, which I think has alot to do with more running the SuperNow!'s is the places that carry/can get the GP Sports have a turn around time of 4-6 weeks, me on the other hand can be as fast as 3-4days, plus my prices are about the same at the 3-4day as the competetiors 4-6 week.
Can you explain the alittle more about the lock to lock 180 each way? Are you speaking of the steering ratio? You would neeed a steering rack quickener.
This post has been edited by eyecandy: 09 June 2005 - 06:05 PM
#7
Posted 09 June 2005 - 06:25 PM
and also, what do u recomend is needed to get the RX-7 to "drifthappieness"? lol
#8
Posted 10 June 2005 - 02:20 PM
I assume you have nothing for the FC? If so here is what I recommend:
First off replace anything that is broken or worn out.
-Polyuerthane bushing kit
-Toe elminator bushings
-Rear adjustable camber link
-Steering angle kit
-strut bars
-coilovers
-roll center blocks (front lower a-arms)
-Sway bars
Thats pretty much the order I recommend them in. Strut bars (front) are in the middle of the list because of how it effects the FCs and causes them to understeer more. Sway bars are at the bottom becasue they should be the last item to be installed and after your chassis is setup properly, sway bars tend to complemnt suspension setups and can hinder your ease of proper setup if they are already upgraded.
If the car has stock power, remove all the rear camber, as your power and expericene increases, increase the camber for stabilty reasons. If you would want to do a alignment setup this is what I recommend:
Front: 2-3 degrees camber; zero toe (add upto 1 degree with power)
Rear: zero camber (add camber with more power); zero toe
This post has been edited by eyecandy: 10 June 2005 - 02:23 PM
#10
Posted 11 June 2005 - 11:10 PM
BTW, itsnt it Toyota Cressida JZX81, not Creddida
#11
Posted 12 June 2005 - 08:20 AM
rfreeman27, on Jun 11 2005, 08:10 PM, said:
Don't ask, I have a friend doing the work on the page right now and for some reason he could not do a simple "copy and paste" Besides the webpage should be updated shortly.
#12
Posted 13 June 2005 - 02:51 PM
eyecandy, on Jun 10 2005, 11:20 AM, said:
I assume you have nothing for the FC? If so here is what I recommend:
First off replace anything that is broken or worn out.
-Polyuerthane bushing kit
-Toe elminator bushings
-Rear adjustable camber link
-Steering angle kit
-strut bars
-coilovers
-roll center blocks (front lower a-arms)
-Sway bars
Thats pretty much the order I recommend them in. Strut bars (front) are in the middle of the list because of how it effects the FCs and causes them to understeer more. Sway bars are at the bottom becasue they should be the last item to be installed and after your chassis is setup properly, sway bars tend to complemnt suspension setups and can hinder your ease of proper setup if they are already upgraded.
If the car has stock power, remove all the rear camber, as your power and expericene increases, increase the camber for stabilty reasons. If you would want to do a alignment setup this is what I recommend:
Front: 2-3 degrees camber; zero toe (add upto 1 degree with power)
Rear: zero camber (add camber with more power); zero toe

i have some of that list, just need struts (gunna rund adj struts with springs) rear strut bar rear camber kit (got one for the front and rear, but only works for teh front :( ),roll center blocks (could u elaborate on that more?? and where can i get'em?)and the steering angle kit wich i will be purchasing soon
and yeah, i deff need an alignment right now
i have a full mods list in my sig :D
#13
Posted 13 June 2005 - 09:40 PM
When the suspension is stock the a-arms are about flat, but when lowered the a-arms are pointed up and the block return them to about stock.
As for where you can find them, I am just about finished with my testing of them and they will be available on www.secretelement.com shortly. I am not sure if anyone else produces these, if there is I have no idea.
#14
Posted 14 June 2005 - 02:52 PM
#15
Posted 14 June 2005 - 05:27 PM
drftk1d, on Jun 14 2005, 11:52 AM, said:
Its actually stainless steel, but whos counting :D
My reasoning is becasue they are very strong and will not fatigue. But most importantly I have had bad experiences with the Racing Beat/MazdaTix style. They would crack/shatter while be pressed in, which derilin is NOT suppose to do that. I know SS (or any other metal) will NOT do that, and looking at the consumer end as well, in event that you screw up a hub in an accident, just press the bushing back out and press it in another hub. Can't do that with the others, I tried :banghead:
#16
Posted 14 June 2005 - 08:56 PM
How much?
will prolly be picking a few other goodies while at it.
#17
Posted 15 June 2005 - 03:10 AM
#18
Posted 15 June 2005 - 07:17 AM
#19
Posted 02 July 2005 - 01:37 PM
Ok back to the alignment thing. The front alignment should be negative toe, which is toe out. This gives you a tad slower steering response, but it makes the front end track a lot better and more overall traction. Also it gives you more steering angle at full lock cause your wheels are pointed out more.
My FC will be powered by an LS1. Therefore i will hopefully have no power issues. I'm going to use the rear toe link kit and run about one degree of positive toe(toe in) for more traction and higher cornering speed...basically doing the same thing as DTTS but the advantage is the alignment angle will be consistant and easier to predict, especially on switchbacks.
I dont know that much about FC chassis except that
1-they are better than s-chassis nissan as far as stiffness
2-steering angle sucks, and the control arms get in the way
i may resort to cutting/welding the spindle to pull the tie rod end inwards more.
I dont even know if FC's have caster adjustment..? Lots of research to be done.
#20
Posted 13 October 2005 - 05:05 PM
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Justone1/driftoX7/ssrshow7.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Justone1/driftoX7/IDD2/030_IMG_5220_JL1.jpg
new paint.. wooohooo
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Justone1/driftoX7/newPaint/DSC018611.jpg
#21
Posted 13 October 2005 - 11:16 PM
hey eye candy got any pics the angle from ur spacers??
also...i emaild u about a set a couple days ago but u havent gotten back to me!! also i need some tie rod ends, u makin thoes too??
i think i might go with the GP sports so i can get the Tie Rod ends with them though....
#22
Posted 13 October 2005 - 11:18 PM
also, keep us posted on the spindle modifacation, i am interested in that too! also interested in sway bar avoidance ;) im only gunna be running 8 up front though (FD wheels soon and then who knows after that, hopin for 16" BBS's like the Verts.....)
#23
Posted 13 October 2005 - 11:24 PM
Ricer240sx, on Oct 13 2005, 09:16 PM, said:
hey eye candy got any pics the angle from ur spacers??
also...i emaild u about a set a couple days ago but u havent gotten back to me!! also i need some tie rod ends, u makin thoes too??
i think i might go with the GP sports so i can get the Tie Rod ends with them though....
you can talk to Adam at shine street.. that's where i got mine http://shinestreet.com/index.html
#24
Posted 13 October 2005 - 11:33 PM
Ricer240sx, on Oct 13 2005, 09:18 PM, said:
also, keep us posted on the spindle modifacation, i am interested in that too! also interested in sway bar avoidance ;) im only gunna be running 8 up front though (FD wheels soon and then who knows after that, hopin for 16" BBS's like the Verts.....)
i've looking into a steering doubler.. but havn't found anything that seems like it'll work well yet... and without having the spindles/control arm/sway bar modded, i don't really feel the need for it yet... i'm also running a 330mm steering wheel that might be helping as well... most of the time in transition i just throw the wheel and catch it after changing angle, this is probably why i havn't seen the need for the doubler.. i'm sure when i start approaching 60+ deg. of steering angle it'll be more of an issue... i haven't measured my angle yet, but i'm figuring it's closer to 45deg or so... but don't quote me on that... does anyone know who makes aftermarket control arms... somthing that will allow more angle, without having to use spacers.. if i can't find anything i'll probably end up fabricating something that moves the part of the control arm that's hitting up and in from where it's now.. also i need to find a swaybar that route's through a different location.. anyone have any ideas??
#25
Posted 01 November 2005 - 02:00 PM
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