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ABS Removal ...not that hard Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   jspecracer7 

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Posted 23 August 2002 - 12:47 AM

Guess what I did yesterday?

Well it wasn't too hard. Now I've all kinds of room on the passenger side of the car...which is where I plan on moving my coils and mounting my FPR over there...

...I'll post pics when I get my stupid digital camera recharged! :D
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#2 User is offline   redlineunlimited 

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Posted 26 August 2002 - 10:39 PM

I WANT PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :bigok: redlineunlimited@insightbb.com thanks
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#3 User is offline   redlineunlimited 

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Posted 30 August 2002 - 11:38 AM

where's those pics?
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#4 User is offline   jspecracer7 

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Posted 30 August 2002 - 12:28 PM

redlineunlimited, on Aug 31 2002, 02:38 AM, said:

where's those pics?

Whooo Hooo!!! I'm drunk...I'll get pics tomorrow morning though..I'll post them here!!! Whooo Hooo!!! I don't drink that much, but that 6er of corona did me in...Whooo Hooo!!!!
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#5 User is offline   Fd3BOOST 

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Posted 31 August 2002 - 02:12 AM

Yea I 'd like to see a small how to and some pics when you get sober.
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#6 User is offline   jspecracer7 

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Posted 01 September 2002 - 02:32 AM

Okay, now that I'm sober, I can post these pics :LOL:

First you will need the following things:

1. Brake "T" which you can get from any car. I got mine from the back of a Nissan Silvia. Just trace the brake lines going to the rear and where the left rear meets the right rear, you'll have a "T". Be sure that you have both the "T" and the banjo fittings.

2. Wilwood brake balancer from Summit/Jegs. Jegs part # is 950-260-2220 fyi.

3. Pipe cutter and a flare tool. I would suggest a high quality flare tool since the one we used SUCKED hairy monkey balls.

4. Brake line wrench(not required but HIGHLY suggested).

After acquiring all necessary parts, you will need to identify all of the brake lines. Identify where the two front brake lines connect. This is where you put the "T". There should be a Joiner fitting somewhere near the brake master cylinder. You replace the joiner with the "T". Here's a picture of what I'm talking about.

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#7 User is offline   jspecracer7 

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Posted 01 September 2002 - 02:38 AM

In the previous picture, you will notice one of the lines has a silver covering. This line will go to the brake balancer.

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#8 User is offline   jspecracer7 

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Posted 01 September 2002 - 02:40 AM

The out of the brake balancer will go to the rear brakes. You can identify that by looking at what line goes to the back. There will only be one. Once that is completed, you will need to join the front line with the other front brake with a joiner.

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#9 User is offline   jspecracer7 

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Posted 01 September 2002 - 02:47 AM

Be sure to bleed the brakes starting from the tire farthest away from the brake master cylinder. Then go and test the brake balancer out. You will want to have the rear brake lock up BEFORE the front brakes. Doing so will cause you to still be able to control the car if you lock up the brakes. You can test this going to a straight patch of road and do a lot of accelerations/braking with someone else outside the car. Have them watch your wheels to see which one locks up first and adjust the brake balancer accordingly.

Fujita Engineering(FEED) of Japan did a test with the ABS vs. Brake balancer on a car that is equipped with 235/45 17's Front and 275/45 17's rear. They had a professional driver drive the ABS equipped car and the brake balancer car was driven by one of their Journalist. The ABS equipped car had WORSE braking than the non-ABS car everytime. :D

Here's an overall picture of my engine bay WITHOUT ABS...Notice what I put in it's place :rolleyes:

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#10 User is offline   Fd3BOOST 

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Posted 01 September 2002 - 08:58 AM

Nice job. Engine bay looks alot cleaner now. And better braking to huh? What was the total cost on the parts. Sounds pretty minimal.
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#11 User is offline   Fd3BOOST 

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Posted 01 September 2002 - 08:59 AM

What is that in it's place relocated oil filter?
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#12 User is offline   jspecracer7 

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Posted 01 September 2002 - 09:04 AM

Fd3BOOST, on Sep 1 2002, 11:59 PM, said:

What is that in it's place relocated oil filter?

My ABS is located on U.S. Driver's side(...just like yours is on your passenger side.) I relocated the COILS from underneath the UIM and put them on top of the ABS bracket. Then I used my old FC Nology Hotwires sparkplug wires since the stock ones weren't long enough. I will probably end up buying the MSD spark plug wires kit for V-8's...the kind that allows you to customize the size of the wires.
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#13 User is offline   Fd3BOOST 

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Posted 01 September 2002 - 09:12 AM

Ok I was looking at the other side near the master cylinder. I thought that polished cannister was an relocated oil filter, am I wrong?
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#14 User is offline   jspecracer7 

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Posted 01 September 2002 - 11:01 AM

Fd3BOOST, on Sep 2 2002, 12:12 AM, said:

Ok I was looking at the other side near the master cylinder. I thought that polished cannister was an relocated oil filter, am I wrong?

That's my cusco oil catch can...but the original owner took the rx-7 off of the strut tower bar and had the "rx-7" put in it's place. :D
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#15 User is offline   Fd3BOOST 

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Posted 01 September 2002 - 10:25 PM

I love that Lime Green Vacuum line.


I thought about buying a little of some bright ugly dayglow yellow to put back in mine.
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#16 User is offline   jspecracer7 

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Posted 02 September 2002 - 02:06 AM

Fd3BOOST, on Sep 2 2002, 01:25 PM, said:

I love that Lime Green Vacuum line.


I thought about buying a little of some bright ugly dayglow yellow to put back in mine.

I used it because it was FREE!!! But it does help when you're trying to put on hosing at NIGHT... :ph34r:
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#17 User is offline   Fd3BOOST 

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Posted 02 September 2002 - 08:09 AM

Yea I bet that is some bright stuff. :wacko:
Anyway. I see you are trying to trade out your strut brace? I have one to trade you.
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#18 User is offline   Fe3Boost 

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Posted 03 September 2002 - 07:46 AM

bad ass dude. I might get rid of mine. Since I have no use for it. Did you get any ABS lights to come on?

-Rikki
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#19 User is offline   jspecracer7 

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Posted 03 September 2002 - 07:56 AM

Dont_Be_A_Rikki, on Sep 3 2002, 10:46 PM, said:

bad ass dude. I might get rid of mine. Since I have no use for it. Did you get any ABS lights to come on?

-Rikki

Sure did!...until I unplugged the ABS computer! :D
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#20 User is offline   Fe3Boost 

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Posted 03 September 2002 - 08:28 AM

cool
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#21 User is offline   jspecracer7 

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Posted 03 September 2002 - 01:07 PM

When I get to Maryland next week, I'll show you what you'll need to do. You do have aftermarket rims right? :P
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#22 User is offline   Fe3Boost 

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Posted 04 September 2002 - 05:21 AM

jspecracer7, on Sep 3 2002, 11:07 AM, said:

When I get to Maryland next week, I'll show you what you'll need to do.  You do have aftermarket rims right? :P

HUH? :burnout:
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#23 User is offline   jspecracer7 

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Posted 04 September 2002 - 06:58 AM

Dont_Be_A_Rikki, on Sep 4 2002, 08:21 PM, said:

jspecracer7, on Sep 3 2002, 11:07 AM, said:

When I get to Maryland next week, I'll show you what you'll need to do.  You do have aftermarket rims right? :P

HUH? :burnout:

Well, if you have stock rims...the ABS will work better for you. But if not, it won't! <_<
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#24 User is offline   Fe3Boost 

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Posted 04 September 2002 - 08:55 AM

Must have something to do with rolling diamater?

-Rikki
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#25 User is offline   jspecracer7 

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Posted 04 September 2002 - 10:16 AM

Dont_Be_A_Rikki, on Sep 4 2002, 11:55 PM, said:

Must have something to do with rolling diamater?

-Rikki

precisely!

The ABS computer accounts for rolling diameter and overall tire patch on the ground. If you change either(going to a larger rim size or a larger tire size), then you've changed the variables the computer uses to calculate the anti-lock feature.
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