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The TB (Throttle Body) Mod
#1
Posted 08 March 2002 - 08:23 PM
TB MOD
#2
Posted 08 March 2002 - 09:00 PM
#3
Posted 17 November 2002 - 01:12 PM
#4
Posted 07 December 2002 - 08:47 PM
it's worth it just for how much cleaner it lets you make the engine bay, if you elminate the double throttle and the thermowax, you can eliminate the coolant hose and the throttle body gets alot cleaner.
#6
Posted 06 January 2003 - 03:19 PM
Has anyone done the TB mod with JB weld and how has it held up? Please give mileage, etc. Some people told me to stay away from the JB weld.
#7
Posted 06 January 2003 - 04:33 PM
#8
Posted 12 January 2003 - 07:13 PM
#9
Posted 13 January 2003 - 06:34 PM
#10
Posted 02 February 2003 - 11:30 AM
thanks,
chris
#11
Posted 02 February 2003 - 11:48 PM
#12
Posted 03 February 2003 - 02:45 AM
FCmaniac, on Feb 2 2003, 04:30 PM, said:
thanks,
chris
I started mine out with first having a welder fill in the holes, then used a rotary tool (dremel) to remove the large chunks of material, and after that was finshed... I spent a long time hand sanding with some high grit wet/dry paper, it's a similar appraoch to polishing the external surface, this just has more purpose. I don't recommend stopping after the rotary tool because that will leave small grooves in teh surface perpendicular to the flow of air, finish with the sandpaper in a reciprocating motion moving along the direction of airflow. Even though the surface will look and feel smooth, it will still have small grooves scratched into it... it's better to have them going with the flow.
#13
Posted 04 February 2003 - 10:49 PM
#14
Posted 11 February 2003 - 12:33 PM
the BACV deals with more than just idle when AC is on, the BACV tries to maintain the idle in general, it's not directly associated to AC.
If you turn on a blower motor, or headlights, or defroster, or roll up / down a window (power windows) the idle will fluxuate due to the varying load applied via the alternator.
The BACV is the ECU's way of counteracting the varying load by fine tuning the amount of air getting to the engine. Without the BACV your
idle will dip when the load varies at idle, and possibly even die.
You can easily keep your BACV, even with an aftermarket ECU like the haltech E6K. It has a target RPM, and uses the BACV to keep it at that target.
The coolant hoses can be eliminated, and plugs can be used on the water pump housing and rear engine housing. Then just remove the part of the BACV that has the coolant passage on the BACV, it's screwed on with two phillips screws if I remember correctly.
#15
Posted 14 February 2003 - 02:46 PM
#16
Posted 14 February 2003 - 04:09 PM
#17
Posted 15 February 2003 - 03:26 PM
#18
Posted 16 February 2003 - 05:13 PM
Apex13B, on Feb 15 2003, 03:26 PM, said:
Apex, I had a problem similar... after tapping it exactly per the instructions on fc3s pro, I put in brass plugs and on the one TB, they went in too far so I had to grind down the extra on the inside. I may remove them and weld it.
I just finished the mods on two TB's and now I'm polishing the bores with my rotary tool and polishing compound. It smooths everything out good for even better air flow.
#19
Posted 18 February 2003 - 03:21 PM
#20
Posted 20 February 2003 - 12:43 PM
#21
Posted 20 February 2003 - 01:19 PM
you should have them weld it from the inside of the throttle body (thought this was obvious) then you will have a booger sitting there but it will be sealed, you then grind it smooth like you're porting it. When all is said and done it's like the double throttle never existed.
#22
Posted 20 February 2003 - 02:02 PM
#23
Posted 20 February 2003 - 03:25 PM
They will still experience vacuum, all of the inner surface of the runners experience vacuum... think of a straw when you try suck a thick shake through it and the walls collapse.
#24
Posted 20 February 2003 - 03:54 PM
or maybe I could just smooth out the area before and after the holes with the help of Dr. Emel.
#25
Posted 21 February 2003 - 04:08 PM
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