Tb Coolant Hose

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#1 Baldy

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 10:06 AM

ok, I recently removed my tb, uim and lim and cleaned everything, replaced my primary fuel rail and p/d, did the tb butterfly mod, installed pineapple 6-port sleeves, and replaced hoses/cleaned stuff...now I need a replacement hose that went from the engine to the throttle body. I went by discount auto part, pep boys, and autozone, and couldn't find any preformed 90 degree coolant hose for the size i needed (to fit under the uim, where it attaches to the engine).

Any ideas on what I could use? What did you guys use?
I ripped my stock hose getting it off. I was thinking of taking off the hose from my parts car, adding a male/male hose connector, and adding an extra length of striaght hose to the bac....you thoughts, please....this is the only thing keeping me from putting it all back together and seeing what difference was made

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#2 mach3turbo

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 10:59 AM

Baldy, on Feb 27 2003, 07:06 AM, said:

Mazda dealership? (Bend over)

#3 Baldy

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 12:07 PM

I just don't want to wait for them to ship it. (they don't have it in stock)

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#4 j9fd3s

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 12:13 PM

you could cap it off for now and get it running and then put the hose in later?

mike

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#5 Baldy

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 12:28 PM

but one end is under the uim...I'd have to remove the uim again to put the hose on later, wouldn't I?

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#6 AE Turbo

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 12:42 PM

I'd just cap it. It will get plenty of heat through convection to deactivate the fast idle. You may have to adjust the fast idle a little though. No big deal.

s

#7 j9fd3s

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 01:07 PM

Baldy, on Feb 27 2003, 09:28 AM, said:

but one end is under the uim...I'd have to remove the uim again to put the hose on later, wouldn't I?

if you have long needle nose pliers (my 2nd favorite tool) it doable with the intake on

mike

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#8 cymfc3s

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 01:11 PM

j9fd3s, on Feb 27 2003, 10:07 AM, said:

if you have long needle nose pliers (my 2nd favorite tool) it doable with the intake on

mike

yah, thats the hose that will have you cursing. The cosmo is soo much nicer, its on the rail.

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#9 Baldy

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 01:26 PM

AE Turbo, on Feb 27 2003, 12:42 PM, said:

I'd just cap it. It will get plenty of heat through convection to deactivate the fast idle. You may have to adjust the fast idle a little though. No big deal.

s

Didn't the tb mod eliminate the fast idle? Also, are you refering to the BAC when you say it'll get enough heat? Does the BAC really need coolant?

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#10 Baldy

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 04:08 PM

I went to ACE hardware and bought 2 hose connectors, threaded on one end and ribbed on the other, and a 90 degree elbow, everything brass...if this doesn't work, I'll go ahead and cap it, but I'd like to know what to do about the BAC...any takers?

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#11 '79rx7

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 04:16 PM

I went to autozone, and they found one; but only after telling me 6 times that they didn't have anything like that it's a heater hose for a ford something. Just make them go look for prebent hose that's pretty close to the same diameter it may be a little bigger than stock but still seals up fine.

Also it has to be cut on both ends to make it fit perfect.

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#12 1Revvin7

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 05:34 PM

Baldy, on Feb 27 2003, 01:26 PM, said:

AE Turbo, on Feb 27 2003, 12:42 PM, said:

I'd just cap it. It will get plenty of heat through convection to deactivate the fast idle. You may have to adjust the fast idle a little though. No big deal.

s

Didn't the tb mod eliminate the fast idle? Also, are you refering to the BAC when you say it'll get enough heat? Does the BAC really need coolant?

bac doesn't need heat does it??? He was talking about the fast idle cam, it has thermowax that melts as the coolant heats up, turning off the fast idle cam. I mean the bac doesn't have anything like that, it just runs though a pipe on the outside of it... hmm.......

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#13 j9fd3s

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 06:01 PM

Baldy, on Feb 27 2003, 01:08 PM, said:

well i can think of 2 things. 1. the bac valve had coolant in it from the factory, if they could have saved the $1 worth of hose and clamps then they would have. they dont have the coolant in the bac on the later cars and it works better.....

mike

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#14 pengaru

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 06:25 PM

i'd keep the bacv, but eliminate the coolant. just plug the nipple on the rear of the engine and the water pump housing and be done with it. You can remove the small piece on the bacv which has the coolant flowing through it, it's just two screws holding it on.

#15 Jerk_Racer

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 07:08 PM

I just took the line from the front and looped it to the rear so there'd be some coolant flow in those areas instead of none.

#16 1Revvin7

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 09:22 PM

pengaru, on Feb 27 2003, 06:25 PM, said:

I tapped and plug the holes on the engine and the TB, after doing the TB mod, i just put my bac back on too :happy:

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#17 pengaru

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Posted 27 February 2003 - 10:31 PM

1Revvin7, on Feb 28 2003, 02:22 AM, said:

I tapped and plug the holes on the engine and the TB, after doing the TB mod, i just put my bac back on too :happy:

cool, thats the best way to go about it in my opinion.

#18 Baldy

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Posted 28 February 2003 - 08:21 AM

j9fd3s, on Feb 27 2003, 06:01 PM, said:

cool...now, I might sound stupid here, but that's never stopped me before: are these caps something I can get at any auto parts store? How tight does it have to be (pressurized system, right?)?

The brass fittings were going to work with some old hose cut to fit, but I think the more that I eliminate, the easier things will be.

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#19 j9fd3s

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Posted 28 February 2003 - 12:53 PM

Baldy, on Feb 28 2003, 05:21 AM, said:

j9fd3s, on Feb 27 2003, 06:01 PM, said:

um it has to hold about 15-20psi, not a lot.

mike

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#20 Racer X

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Posted 28 February 2003 - 03:18 PM

After I do the TB mod to mine to my engine I'm garbaging that BACV.No need for it after that.Just makes it easier to work on and one less thing that could go wrong.Look at how many rotaries never had it?Theres a reason for that. :D

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#21 Baldy

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Posted 28 February 2003 - 03:55 PM

Quote

the BACV deals with more than just idle when AC is on, the BACV tries to maintain the idle in general, it's not directly associated to AC.

If you turn on a blower motor, or headlights, or defroster, or roll up / down a window (power windows) the idle will fluxuate due to the varying load applied via the alternator.

The BACV is the ECU's way of counteracting the varying load by fine tuning the amount of air getting to the engine. Without the BACV your
idle will dip when the load varies at idle, and possibly even die.

You can easily keep your BACV, even with an aftermarket ECU like the haltech E6K. It has a target RPM, and uses the BACV to keep it at that target.

this is why I'm keeping mine

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#22 pengaru

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Posted 28 February 2003 - 04:23 PM

Racer X, on Feb 28 2003, 08:18 PM, said:

most fuel injected vehicles have a IAC (idle air control) motor, on the FC the BACV is the IAC equivalent. It's not a big deal, it doesnt need coolant, and it doesnt make things much messier. You'll probably wish you had it after you do it unless you don't mind your idle wandering around when the alternator places varying loads onthe motor (and possibly dying unless you set your idle high, which is annoying also)

#23 1Revvin7

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Posted 28 February 2003 - 04:45 PM

pengaru, on Feb 28 2003, 04:23 PM, said:

yea my car was dying after i took it off, that was ghey.

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#24 Jerk_Racer

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Posted 28 February 2003 - 06:25 PM

I have an '89T2. I don't have it anymore. My car idles at 800rpm. It idles very smoothly. It doesn't stall, die, or do anyting odd when it is cold or up to temperature. I'm not sure what the fuss is all about. :huh: