1971ChevelleSSV8

Well even if this was sight unseen, was it possible to ask for casting numbers in any case to find out? Like say I magically find a rotary in a junkyard somewhere, are there casting #'s for me to identify the block by?

1Revvin7

No, there are no casting #s. It's pretty easy to trick someone. You don't have to open the motor, but you do have to take of the intake manifolds to tell for sure.

1Revvin7

Lets try and make this into a faq.





To turbocharge an n/a motor you need to either: a) adapt a t2 lower intake manifold via an adapter or cutting/welding or b) use the stock n/a intake manifolds and make a "cherry" as they like to call it. A cherry is an adapter piece to make intercooler piping fit on the n/a throttle body.



You can see the reason for this below. Top picture is an n/a motor. It has 6 intake ports vs the 4 port turbo motor below.

1Revvin7

Here is a picture of an n/a motor, aka 6 port with all the intake manifolds removed. #s 2 & 6 show the extra 5/6th auxiliary ports.

1Revvin7

Its not the best picture, but below is a 4 port turbo motor. As you can see there are no 5/6th auxiliary ports, just 2 larger secondary ports on the front and rear irons.

1Revvin7

This is what is refered to as a cherry.

This is from Aaron cake's turbo'd n/a motor.

1Revvin7

The next problem is if you use the stock n/a manifolds the stock turbo ehxaust housing will not allow the turbo to clear the manifold. So either: a) make a new exhaust manifold or b) use a spacer to push the turbo manifold out several inches.



You can buy 2 Racingbeat flanges and weld in several inches of piping shown below.

1Revvin7

Now you have the issue of the oil feed line, you can either: a) buy a oil pedistal adpater. RacingBeats, teamfc3s, or fc3s.org all sell them. Then plum in an oil line from the pedistal to the turbo, but you have to find the right fittings which can get hard. b) tap into the stock oil cooler or the front iron.



For the oil return line you can either: a) use a t2 front cover or b) tap into the oil pan and make your own line/fiitings.

1Revvin7

If you use the n/a intake manifolds then you need to use a FMIC, but you're going to have to make your own piping as the n/a and t2 throttle bodies point to different sides.

If you use the t2 intake manifolds then you can either use the stock tmic/hood or a buy a fmic kit or make your own kit.



As far as the ecu/harness goes you can either use the stock t2 ecu/harenss/injectors/afm/boost sensor.

By far the best route would be a standalone such as a Haltech or microtech.



Since the n/a motor is high compression its easier to detonate and blow. To compensate you need to have precise tuning and a cold intake charge. In my opinion a standalone is a MUST. Most who have tried running these boosted n/a motors with the stock efi t2 or n/a blow the motor.



As far as fuel goes you should atleast use a t2 fuel pump or an aftermarket larger flow pump such as a walrbo. And atleast use t2 injectors if not larger secondaries. Larger secondaries do require an safc if using the stock ecu.



N/a and t2 coils are the same, no need to swap.

1Revvin7

bump for more info...