The TB (Throttle Body) Mod
#12
Originally Posted by FCmaniac' date='Feb 2 2003, 04:30 PM
I just finished the mod on a spare from the FC3S-pro instructions. Did you guys who have done it go through the TPS set up when you put the TB back in? I was also wanting to polish the inside real good to smooth it out. I was wondering if I should use the dremel tool or just hand sand it with some real fine paper or what... any input there?
thanks,
chris
thanks,
chris
#13
I simplified the TB Mod by simply just removing the Secondary Plates. I kept everything else Intact. Doing It this way, allows me to still keep everything Intact and not have to hold the gas down for fear of bogging out. Fini!
#14
For those asking about the bac here is the low down.
the BACV deals with more than just idle when AC is on, the BACV tries to maintain the idle in general, it's not directly associated to AC.
If you turn on a blower motor, or headlights, or defroster, or roll up / down a window (power windows) the idle will fluxuate due to the varying load applied via the alternator.
The BACV is the ECU's way of counteracting the varying load by fine tuning the amount of air getting to the engine. Without the BACV your
idle will dip when the load varies at idle, and possibly even die.
You can easily keep your BACV, even with an aftermarket ECU like the haltech E6K. It has a target RPM, and uses the BACV to keep it at that target.
The coolant hoses can be eliminated, and plugs can be used on the water pump housing and rear engine housing. Then just remove the part of the BACV that has the coolant passage on the BACV, it's screwed on with two phillips screws if I remember correctly.
the BACV deals with more than just idle when AC is on, the BACV tries to maintain the idle in general, it's not directly associated to AC.
If you turn on a blower motor, or headlights, or defroster, or roll up / down a window (power windows) the idle will fluxuate due to the varying load applied via the alternator.
The BACV is the ECU's way of counteracting the varying load by fine tuning the amount of air getting to the engine. Without the BACV your
idle will dip when the load varies at idle, and possibly even die.
You can easily keep your BACV, even with an aftermarket ECU like the haltech E6K. It has a target RPM, and uses the BACV to keep it at that target.
The coolant hoses can be eliminated, and plugs can be used on the water pump housing and rear engine housing. Then just remove the part of the BACV that has the coolant passage on the BACV, it's screwed on with two phillips screws if I remember correctly.
#16
i've read about people using JB weld on the holes in the throttle body, I personally don't like it because if part of it comes loose and is sucked into the motor... you could damage things. It's not that much trouble to bring the throttle body to a local welding place that does TIG and have them fill the holes for $20.
#18
Originally Posted by Apex13B' date='Feb 15 2003, 03:26 PM
i used large pipe plugs (7/16)..the brass insert on the radiator side (front of car) of the TB spun on me, even with boelube on it...welding it will be the best and most complete solution
I just finished the mods on two TB's and now I'm polishing the bores with my rotary tool and polishing compound. It smooths everything out good for even better air flow.
#20
ok, I got a welder to fill the holes. on the inside, there is still a hole about 1/8" deep, but it's plugged to the outside. Should I bother with this, or just go with it since it's less restrictive than the butterflies that were there?