How to use ATF on Carbon locked engines
12-21-2002, 09:11 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 310
I've heard rumors that if the 12a sits for more than 2 months it "Locks up." Just wanted to find out if that is true. am thinking of buying my friends Corrola with 12A. but dont' want to have to put a new engine in first. 
12-22-2002, 11:03 AM
#2
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Vanderhoof,BC(Canada)
Posts: 5,542
IF it is locked up(I doubt it will after 2 months)then you can do the ATF trick to it.ATF(Automatic tranny fluid) will break up the carbon deposits in the engine just remember to let the atf sit in the engine for about a week with the engine while trying to turn it over every once in a while to help break down the deposits in the engine.
08-04-2003, 12:09 AM
#3
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 27
ATF doesn't take a week to eat through the carbon, a day or two max.
The way I did it is a little different than the way that "most" people do, but I find it works much better.
To find out if the engine is siezed, the easiest way is to rotate the main pulley by hand. Rotaries have relatively easy main pulleys to rotate, and if you can't do it by hand, this procedure is for you.
1. Pull all four spark plugs and fill a windex bottle about 1/4 full of ATF.
2. Spray liberally into each spark plug hole and let sit for an hour or two (more if necessary)
3. Attempt to turn the main pulley by hand. (The first time you do step 2 you may need to let it sit as long as overnight with a good amount of ATF sprayed in to allow it to start rotating). As you do so, turn it so that the top of the pulley rotates AWAY from you, and towards the passenger side of the car. This is the opposite way that it turns normally. The reason we do this is so that the apex of the rotor will pick up excess ATF and carbon gunk from the bottom and shove it out the bottom spark plug holes, instead of into the exhaust! Turn the pulley 1/3 of the way or however far you can easily turn it by hand w/o forcing it.
4. If the pulley turns slightly then "sticks" again, repeat steps 2-3 from where it sticks. Otherwise, rotate the pulley 1/3 of the way around and repeat steps 2 and 3. Leave at LEAST an hour between these. If after an hour or two doesn't unlock it, spray more ATF in, liberally, and let soak overnight
5. The most important part! When the pulley will freely make a full rotation (always towards the passenger side), turn it three to six FULL rotations. This will let each rotor make one full rotation (the main shaft rotates 3 times per every 1 rotor rotation), and shove any excess ATF and crap out the spark plug holes. You want to get AS MUCH of that crap out of your engine as humanly possible.
6. Clean (or replace) and re-install the spark plugs, and make SURE the plug wires are on properly, then trickle a *little* gas (and I do mean little.. like a tablespoon or two worth of it) and try to give it a start. You will get some thick white smoke at the beginning, but if you've done it correctly, it'll dissipate quickly.
NOTE: This is ONLY ever to be used on siezed/carbon-locked engines. Don't do this on engines that turn. Contrary to popular belief on some forums ATF isn't really good to have burning in your engine. ATF "treatments" as they call them (throwing some down the carburetor of a running car) will smoke like hell, clog your catalytic converters, foul your spark plugs and not really do anything worthwhile. If your compression is *really* low, try this kind of treatment with MMO or PowerFoam, I've heard those will work at releasing carbon on a working engine pretty well. Drive gently on the unlocked engine for a while, sort of like breaking in a new engine, just not as much.
The way I did it is a little different than the way that "most" people do, but I find it works much better.
To find out if the engine is siezed, the easiest way is to rotate the main pulley by hand. Rotaries have relatively easy main pulleys to rotate, and if you can't do it by hand, this procedure is for you.
1. Pull all four spark plugs and fill a windex bottle about 1/4 full of ATF.
2. Spray liberally into each spark plug hole and let sit for an hour or two (more if necessary)
3. Attempt to turn the main pulley by hand. (The first time you do step 2 you may need to let it sit as long as overnight with a good amount of ATF sprayed in to allow it to start rotating). As you do so, turn it so that the top of the pulley rotates AWAY from you, and towards the passenger side of the car. This is the opposite way that it turns normally. The reason we do this is so that the apex of the rotor will pick up excess ATF and carbon gunk from the bottom and shove it out the bottom spark plug holes, instead of into the exhaust! Turn the pulley 1/3 of the way or however far you can easily turn it by hand w/o forcing it.
4. If the pulley turns slightly then "sticks" again, repeat steps 2-3 from where it sticks. Otherwise, rotate the pulley 1/3 of the way around and repeat steps 2 and 3. Leave at LEAST an hour between these. If after an hour or two doesn't unlock it, spray more ATF in, liberally, and let soak overnight
5. The most important part! When the pulley will freely make a full rotation (always towards the passenger side), turn it three to six FULL rotations. This will let each rotor make one full rotation (the main shaft rotates 3 times per every 1 rotor rotation), and shove any excess ATF and crap out the spark plug holes. You want to get AS MUCH of that crap out of your engine as humanly possible.
6. Clean (or replace) and re-install the spark plugs, and make SURE the plug wires are on properly, then trickle a *little* gas (and I do mean little.. like a tablespoon or two worth of it) and try to give it a start. You will get some thick white smoke at the beginning, but if you've done it correctly, it'll dissipate quickly.
NOTE: This is ONLY ever to be used on siezed/carbon-locked engines. Don't do this on engines that turn. Contrary to popular belief on some forums ATF isn't really good to have burning in your engine. ATF "treatments" as they call them (throwing some down the carburetor of a running car) will smoke like hell, clog your catalytic converters, foul your spark plugs and not really do anything worthwhile. If your compression is *really* low, try this kind of treatment with MMO or PowerFoam, I've heard those will work at releasing carbon on a working engine pretty well. Drive gently on the unlocked engine for a while, sort of like breaking in a new engine, just not as much.
02-27-2008, 03:30 PM
#6
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Northern Virginia, USA
Posts: 4
I would think that someone should update any thread or posting they see containing ATF and insert MMO or SeaFoam...
Both products are designed to be burned in an engine and break up carbon.
ATF is not designed to be burned in an engine. It may well break up carbon, but it may leave just as much behind, (Evidenced by spark plug fouling.)
Both products are designed to be burned in an engine and break up carbon.
ATF is not designed to be burned in an engine. It may well break up carbon, but it may leave just as much behind, (Evidenced by spark plug fouling.)
07-18-2012, 03:33 PM
#8
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
Re: How to use ATF on Carbon locked engines
Sea foam, is absolutely the best chemical break down for carbon build up. It's relatively easy to use and theres no after math repairs...like replacing the spark plugs. At least this was my experience ! I'm completely sold on this stuff.
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